Thanks, i forgot to specify, but i meant enclosure to ground…guessing thats what you meant anyway
that really depends on how smooth the road u ride on is, if the road is like a race track, u can go low at 5mm clearance without issue, but if there is a single bump, then i’d say give it at least 20mm (on thane, don’t know about pneumatic
I though u r asking about motor mount to ground distance 
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You can use an esk8 battery for just about anything else, but you can’t use other batteries for esk8. Esk8 take extreme vibrations and the way the batteries are built specifically to deal with this, without creating fireballs. Using an Aliexpress or etsy or Mboards battery is not a good idea at all, and strongly advised against.
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I’m not at home at the moment. I will send it asap.
google tells me this is a LiitoKala battery pack? just don’t get it, its a waste of time, money if u didn’t die from it when it goes boom boom
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Mentioning a number of millimeters IMHO doesn’t help, because it highly depends on wheelbase as well. Shorter wheelbases can have much less clearance and still be just as functional. A long wheelbase needs a taller clearance, or a clearance that’s arched in the center.
My goto test is I go find a speed hump local to me, one of the nasty ones, and I like the skate to just barely be able to roll over it head-on with me on top, without scraping (but a couple millimeters away). The shorter the board, the lower it can be.
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what’s the wheel-base? how can i tell if it’s long or short?
wheelbase is front axle to rear axle distance
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Not sure I understand completely. There’s a switch that turns just the battery on but doesn’t connect to the unity anywhere that I can tell and then there’s the switch that comes with the unity that connects only to the unity. So if the battery switch is off theoretically the unity shouldn’t be getting any power and wouldn’t be able to turn on until I press the momentary switch button that came with the unity correct?
In the parts that came with the enclosure and the 12 S 4 P battery torque boards the off on switch for the battery just connects to the 2 leads coming out of the battery’s BMS… With a little power wire to go to the battery percentage indicator but from what I can tell it doesn’t connect to the unity in any other way but the male XT 90 power cable connector coming out of the BMS that I have to adapt to fit into the XT60 male power cable connector for the power cables coming out of the unity.
Does that make more sense? Is it OK to have separate switch that turns the battery on and off it’s not connected to the unity ESC and then have the other momentary power switch that is connected to the unity ESC as well and when I want to power the board on I just flip the battery switch to on which brings power to the unity and then press the momentary switch turn the unity on. It’s been devil ishly hard to find schematics that tell you out what ports in the foc box unity are 4 connecting which of the other components such as the Bluetooth receiver and Hall sensor cables and will I have an empty port the one that’s labeled com? Band is the can port also remain port that I’m not using since the receiver I have from the Hoyt street puck remote seems to fit into the Ppm servo port?
Thanks again very much
How exactly do I charge multiple separate LiPos safely? I’m thinking about a build with four 14Ah 6S1P LiPos, and I was thinking about connecting them in parallel and series to 12S2P. I’ve got a single balance charger with leads up to 6S, so I can charge one battery at a time, but I won’t be able to balance them among separate packs. Will that be an issue? Literature seems to point to a safety margin of .1V/cell, so a .6V pack difference in this case should be ok.
I could be misunderstanding your setup but…
If you are balance charging each pack separately then all the cells of all four packs will be at approximately the same voltage after charging is done. Assuming the cells in each pack are in good condition, that is.
You can go back and “top off” the first pack or two if you want if it’s been a while between charging the first pack and the fourth pack. Probably not necessary though.
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Ok, it is way too much. 1MOhm . What does it mean, please?
Where can I get a good charger for my 10S3P 36v battery? I’ve been using a cheap one from eBay but it gets real hot and I don’t trust it. I like my iMax B6 Mini, so if there’s anything similar (in the “universal charger” sense) that’d work for bigger batteries I’d prefer that.
Typically you can’t get a 10s balance charger for cheap, you can make on by wiring a BMS permanently to a CC-CV charger if you do not need adjustable settings
I highly recommend YZPower on AliExpress, their units are seemingly high quality and all of my chargers are from them now, they are very affordable even at higher currents but you do need to wait a couple weeks for shipping
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Yeah it’s that approximately part that I’m a little concerned about. I guess that also leaves out the possibility of being able to charge the pack as a whole to anything under than 100%, unless you have some sort of voltage adjustable charger.
Ah, alright. Looks like YZPOWER has a 36V 5A charger for 10S. Thanks!
Does it have a BMS?
If the answer is yes then Metroboard has a good charger for that
$75 USD is pretty steep… I’m willing to take the AE shipping times to save $40. Thank you though
The bigger ZYPower chargers have a small fan, just be aware that they are a little noisy, also specifiy exactly which wall outlet and charge port you want
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That is a higher quality charger with no fan/noise but yeah that’s also why it’s pricey.