I’ve heard the ender 3 gets recommended as a first printer. Unless someone else can chime in
1 Like
If you can go a step higher and want more build volume, get the Artillery Sidewinder X1
1 Like
Question not worth it’s own thread. @Jujo sent me this @eBoosted enclosure. I’m gonna turn the parts from the many rebuilds of my trampa into a scrap carve/cruiser. Can I fill the holes in the old deck? Epoxy maybe? What kind of epoxy won’t destroy the wicked flex on this deck? Is there an other way?
1 Like
Can somebody please explain me what’s the difference between 15mm and 20mm wide belts (and pulleys) ? I’ve bought 16t pulley from boardnamics and they told me that they only have it 20mm wide… don’t know if its better or worse
Well the main difference is grip on the pulleys. With a wider belt you get more grip, so there’s lesser chance of the belt skipping. There are numerous ways to combat this, but if you are doing single, I’d think you’d want 15mm belt.
I don’t hear of many people running 20mm, sounds like a lot of unnecessary drag. I’ve always run 12mm belts on my boards and haven’t had issues with skipping for the most part. My latest board has idler mounts with 12mm belts, zero skipping at all.
2 Likes
You can get some 3d printed inserts similar to what @Saturn_Corp did here "Trail Blazer" My Trampa / MBS Hybrid ATB
1 Like
The idler is actually aluminum. It’s interesting hearing this because a lot of my parts have been mistaken for plastic, especially because of the sandblasted finish 
7 Likes
If you flick the idler with your finger you can tell it’s metal, but the finish is reminiscent of plastic
1 Like
I can print out those inserts and some wings if you want!
2 Likes
The ender 3 seems to be the go-to starter printer. The CR-6 is the new kid on the block with some nice new features, but a correspondingly higher pricetag.
The Prusa printers are very good too, but you’re paying a lot extra for the ongoing development and supporting the Prusa team.
Other than that, it’s all a matter of finding a printer that does all the things you want to do.
Need direct drive? Or an all-metal hot end? Or automatic bed leveling? All those options will constrain your choices to some extent.
3 Likes
Sure, try these and tweak as needed
motor>general>voltage
motor>general>current
Battery max: 25A to start; raise to 60A - 100A later once you test things
Battery max regen: -35A
Motor max: 80A
Motor min: -60A
motor>general>advanced
Fault Stop Time: 80ms
Duty Cycle Current Limit Start: 85%
app>general>ppm
Control Type: Current Hyst Reverse With Brake
to start, once you are expert, try out “Current”
for others reading this, that’s just for Unity ESC
2 Likes
What is the technical name for the belts we use? Trying to find thethem on vbeltguys but there are so many kinds.
1 Like
“HTD5M synchronous timing belts”
Sweet thanks
Oh thanks I had things alot higher
Battery max 120a
Battery max regen -60a
Motor max 60a
Motor min -60a
You’ve gotta be careful with those settings! I blew up a battery cranking settings up not knowing it could be harmful to the system.
1 Like
I haven’t taken it for a ride yet its been raining so I’m going to turn it down
Yah really depends on how big of a rider and how much stuff you have on you if fully loaded up with stuff in backpack and carrying things I notice the difference in acceleration but I use 40A on single motor setup and -30A for braking since I don’t want it to yank me off the board one way or another and only weigh like 130lbs wet. Also nice if using metr or other bluetooth that lets you set and switch modes to let newbs try vs when you’re feeling risky and are geared up to do top speed and acceleration testing 
