How did you manage to battle harden them? I have their 6354 but they like epoxied motor can screws in
the new 6374 from flipsky is already battle harden in factory
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They’re from anubis’s group buy batch. Idk much as i don’t want to open them yet
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Is that scratch line from normal operation? Do you hear it after a certain rpm?
The line was from a brand new motor. The photos are minutes after receiving the package. One motor has a higher pitch “scream” at 85ish % duty cycle. Lemme find the video
e: fuck i took the videos offline. This is what i was describing
at a certain rpm/speed,cycle whatever one of the motors would get substantially louder than the other.
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I can’t see any video…
Both my motors have a strong resonating hum near full rpm. Floods the room with noise like a fire alarm kind of hum
But one seems to be grinding somewhere over 80%. Annoying because i do actually reach and stay at top speed. Hopefully it’ll rub down in time…
Do your hall sensors work?
i know, i took them off a few weeks ago. Didn’t know they would be useful again.
I don’t have any grinding sound. Just a slight clicking when turning by hand.
Hall sensors work yes.
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Can you show the colours of the wires as they go in the jst connector? Also if you know, the voltage the sensor plug gives. 5v/3.3v
Until what temperature should a motor be fine and working without any damage? What do you guys feel comfortable with?
And how accurate is the Focbox app?
Just leave the default temperature limits. It’s not something life hack-y to modify or tune. The magnets start to lose their properties at around 85°, other things like glue and bearings are put under much more stress as well and something will eventually fail, all for no advantage since a higher temperature cutoff will not make the motor shed heat in any different way, just take a bit longer to get to the new cutoff
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Likely somewhere around the 80°C mark
As accurate as the hardware is, I’d feel comfortable guessing it’s around ±5%
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Yep… no luck… i guess i will have to open the motors after all. With multimeter hall sensors seem to latch to ground on/off as they spin, but i’m not really sure what the vescs expect to see
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That is what should happen
Relative to ground, each of A, B, C, should alternate between a higher and lower voltage as you slowly turn the rotor.
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Well, they do. Temperature sensor works as well. What the hell is wrong after all? I can plop in the old motors and they work, i put these, nada
What do the old motor’s hall sensors do on the multimeter?
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Do you have the pinout correct? The hall signal wire order doesn’t matter, but ground, power, temp, and the three halls all have to go in the right places.
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You and @MysticalDork might be on to something…
Old motors: halls to: gnd - 0.00v or 0.9-1v
Red wire - 3.2v or 0.2-0.3v
Will update with new motor
New motor:
Hall to gnd - 0.1 or 0.9~95v
Hall to red - 0.25~45v or 2.85~3.25v
Seems like flipshit found a way to source even shittier sensors this time around…
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Hey guys, which gear ratio would you suggest for good high speed and torque (10s4p)with 87/90mm wheels ? And If I put some 6inch pneumatics on it for some off road would you recommend to change gear ratio for a bit more torque or do you think that a classic 1:2,25 would be fine for both?
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