Yup no problem with it really for electronics except for water damage to look out for. Personally think more important to conformal coat electronics if you want to waterproof things than to absolutely have an air/water tight seal. I printed two versions of my electronics enclosure one with air flow gaps for summer to keep the esc from thermal throttling and one more sealed one for riding in crappier weather.
Putting some kind of mesh or cover over the motor if it has openings or around the belt drive can help to avoid any rocks getting in there too if riding in gravel area or otherwise expect that might be a problem but pretty rare for me to get anything in there just cruising paved roads.
Okay, I’m using a tb 6355 motor so those have any opening and my belt is completely out exposed. I live in california so there is a lot of dirt and pebbles and I already have everything covered in dirt lol, si hopefully it will be ok
If you are using the hall sensors, they are not waterproof!
Unless it’s a new TB6355 then they might be, those look like they’ve taken the effort to seal them up pretty well. A TB6355 from last year or any other year, and any other brand 6355, your sensors are not going to be waterproof.
ACK is a forked version of the VESC Tool… pretty much a reliable tried and true version of the firmware, and a great place to start your journey into VESC firmware, and is pretty much not going to be updated or supported anymore… It’s where I started, and lots of peeps still run it…
I no longer use it and moved most of my boards over to VESC Tool and FW 5.~
Is there a reason why you don’t wish to use FW 5.~? the only issue I’ve found is poor thermal motor filtering, and that’s being worked on at the present in FW5.02
+plus it’s not like you’re married to a FW, you can easily try FW out and if your motor, ESC, etc. are unhappy you can swap FW
Not really, I was just wondering what a good starting point would be since I see a lot of info for both. I thought switching FW would’ve been a lot more work lol.
Are there any noteable differences? Apart from that Ackmaniac is no longer being updated?
If this is your first GO at VESC tool… use ACK and Mike’s excellent tutorial… it will get your feet wet and is a great place to start… pretty much bullet-proof
if everything is hunky-dorey it’s your choice whether you wish to move back to VESC tool…
but in either choice… consider dropping Ben (Vedder) some folding cash for his effort… with out him… we’d still be back in the stone age… and ACK wouldn’t even exist
Ackmaniac has wattage control mode, that’s about it I believe.
I would run it if you feel comfortable with it and don’t need the features newer firmware provides.
Its been proven to be very reliable and stable.
Yeah this is my first time with a VESC tool so I’ll go with the ACK tool for now. I think I’ll only really need the bare minimum of features for now lol. Thanks guys
Am I going to use sensorless HFI? --> use Vedder 4.2+
Am I going to use Unity hardware? --> use Vedder
Am I using anything that requires a new version? --> use Vedder
Otherwise --> use Ackmaniac
The person that modified the old version of Vedder software into what we call Ackmaniac has disappeared from the scene, but if you want a rock solid, bug-free, time-tested software, then Ackmaniac 3.103 is your solution.
However, I often use HFI and when I do, I need a Vedder version.
It’s high frequency injection, it’s a way to { sometimes / usually / if tuned well / when lucky } drive a motor without sensors (only the 3 big phase wires connected) but smoothly cross the 0.00 km/h mark without needing to push with your foot.
The motor controller knows where the rotor is because when it spins, it gives electric feedback… but when it’s not spinning, the controller has no idea where the rotor is, and so has no idea which coils to fire to start turning it. It’s like it loses track of it – and getting them synchronized again makes a lot of “cogging” or hard little jolts while stuff gets aligned again
A well-tuned HFI setup with motors that are friendly to HFI can perform just as well or better than a sensored setup… without the added failure rates that sensors add. But some motors don’t like HFI and it’s hard to tune correctly.
The only downside to using Ackmaniac with unsensored BLDC mode, is that you need to push once lightly with your foot to start from a stop. And only until you learn to master the subtle hip-flick. It just doesn’t work unless the wheels are turning. They don’t need to be turning fast at all. Just turning. Any amount.
if your motors and ESC like it, it’s sweet… if they don’t like it, it don’t work and motors cog… NOT all motors and ESCs like HFI, even sibling motors from the same mfr. batch etc don’t work well with HFI…
when it works, it’s genius… when it doesn’t you gotta learn the hip-flick™
