Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Thank You. It’s not the esc since I’ve switched sides with the other motor, also problem remains when not connected to esc at all. When I just paddle the problem remains. So I think it’s neither an esc or electronical problem. It has something to do with the motor not running smooth when there is applied pressure to it when riding it. Makes scratchy/vibrating sounds. I’ll keep trying some things with fitting and bearings today.

Yes; perfect fit

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Can anyone with 6x2 wheels measure the inside spacer please?

Anybody recommend any motor mounts that fit in the TB CNC trucks? The TB mounts are already bending on me :grimacing:.

Has anyone ever experienced this. Got a new focbox set it all up and it was running ok. Come the next day the right side motor would not run. and was making a peculiar noise. Plugged in to the pc and ran the vesc auto detect and it showed a flux could not be detected. I have checked the continuity and resistance of the motors and they have checked out fine. I have also swapped the motors around and it caused the problem to my left motor so it must be Vesc related.

There’s not too many options for them…if @Janux-esk8 doesn’t have them then I don’t think you can get them

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Link me to them, I got you with the math. The one I found close to that is a 6354 motor at 190kv. Is that it?

If so, max current draw is 49amps if you’re using 12s batteries. Due to the resistor of 0.053Ohms.

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Yup. 6354 at 190kv. Using them for a good while now (bearings about to fail, flipshit quality) at 50-55 amps. Just upped them to 60 to see what happens

Maker-x recommends 44-45 amps, trampa vesc says 51 amps

You can do a safe amp of 55 and it won’t overheat badly. But for 100% certain, you ain’t getting 65 amps max. That’ll overheat very fast and hit over 120°c in a few miles.

Unless you added cooling liquid to your motors, then you could.

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Honestly on urethane they were doing great. Constant 40-50km/hr on street for 7km daily and barely got warm. Some scorching asphalt and long hills got them to lose some power but i could still hold them.

On pneumatics is another story… double consumption
In this country liquid cooling comes natural. It rains most of the time!

Yeah, I’ve figured you would lose some power since the resistor won’t let you pass the 65 amps or 70amps (max resistance amps), regardless if you can get it to instantaneous burst currents (which helps on hills).

That’s the downside.

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So you’re saying that above those numbers i gain more heat than torque?

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Does anyone know why I keep getting DRV faults?

They usually come in burst like this:


All within one second, and always on motor 1.

and here is the message:

But I never notice them while riding and I’m not sure when they started because I just got my Metr yesterday.

Here are some more pics:

Always 0 current too.

Correct. That’s the tradeoff on smaller motors. The larger ones works more for torque in the same results due to a larger current acceptance.

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I have been wondering what was better for cooling, heatsinks with thin fins or chunky ones like the 3DS ones. I think I read once that even a chunk of metal would do a lot for heat dissipation.

Did you try motor detection? I’ve seen this error before…

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metal works better. I use it on all my escs. I also add some thermal pastes to make it work.

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Yep, reflashed the FW on both and did all the settings from scratch. Nothing out of the ordinary.

Alright, so if you run into this again, try to rerun the motor detection at the time of notice. This usually happens due to a faulty drv chip.

Edit: I did see this before lol