Sorry, but what is the screw method? Just putting the insert on a drill bit and screwing it in?
I followed this method
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NO! I tried using a heat gun for ABS and it came out horrible. My recommendation is using Fiberglass resin and fiberglass cloth (not a mat) if you’re doing it without heating up ABS in some kind of oven and having a clamp mold to hold it down.
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Oh, perfect! I’ll use this then when I install them, thanks
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no idea. i could take hours staring at the box and batteries to figure
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It’s physically possible — but practically impossible.
It’s easier to learn how to make an acceptable quality (not professional quality) fiberglass enclosure instead — and the end result will be much, much better.
Source: have worked with ABS, kydex, and fiberglass enclosures
See this thread for inspiration
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Possible? Yes. Feasible? No.
You really need an oven or other large source of heat to get the whole thing up to temperature at once. I used the kitchen oven and that worked great.
The heat gun is great for small adjustments like fixing a corner or a curve, but you’ll never be able to do the whole thing that way.
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Thanks guys 
You can do it at home but it’s a project.
I followed a web tutorial and made a big wooden box to fit over a heater and melt the plastic. And then put onto a DIY vacuum table. It worked pretty well, but was not cheap (material cost was a couple hundred bux) But works pretty well. I have used a couple times and made moulds for Enclosures with it. I had some sketches somewhere but here’s pics.
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Yeah, I went with a MDF positive mold and a harbor freight foam floor mat negative mold.
Screwed the plastic to a frame to prevent warping, shoved the whole thing in the oven, then stuck it between the mold halves and stood on it until it was cool.
I needed to sharpen the corners a bit with a heat gun afterwards where the foam didn’t provide enough pressure, but the final result was pretty decent and I think I spent maybe $40 on materials excluding the 0.080" thick kydex itself.
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After working with kydex and ABS and fiberglass I can’t recommend more highly that any noob go directly for fiberglass and skip the heat molding
I wish I’d went straight for fiberglass
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I have a noob question.
I have a pile of 5.5mm bullet connectors on my desk for someone in a private message.
who was it?
I can’t find it, my search skills must be lacking
please reply to our PM
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I mean I’ll take them off your hands if you wanna get rid of them 
Did they already pay? You can track them via the address in PM
They’re spoken for, but by whom I cannot recall
just reply to the PM if it’s you 
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Enter the messages section and from where it says “inbox” select “sent”. You’ll find it there if he didn’t answer yet
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Soldering flux. It’s a large area of metal you’re trying to work with so you want to minimize the amount of time you’re taking to heat up that solder and avoid damaging parts. Using a lot of flux and prepping each piece really cuts down on heat time
Alternatively, you can just extend the wires instead of replacing with longer wires
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My first board had an absolutely awful fiberglass enclosure. I just didn’t have any of the tools or supplies to do it right, so i switched to plastic for the second one because I was impatient and plastic makes less of a stinky, itchy, goopy mess than fiberglass does.
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Alright I need to get some flux, I considered just adding some cable length but it was really cut short. Maybe I could but bullet connectors and just make extensions.
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In my opinion, adding more pieces and parts allows more errors. If you get some flux, I’m sure you can easily remove the shorter cables. What vesc is that btw?
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Yo, anyone who knows about the torqueboards mini remote, can you answer me?
I almost had a wipe out from my board because of a random disconnection from the remote. My board is programmed to slow down if my remote ever lost connection. Is there something up with the remote?
Rip to my sandals.
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