Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

What are your ramp up/down values?
At 0 or really close to 0 you would indeed get very violent, wheel-locking cutouts if the remote is the issue.
Setting both to let’s say 1 second, would smoothly ramp up/down if the remote is the true issue. More than enough to adjust your position on the board too.
If the esc or motors are the issue, this will probably do nothing.

One more thing: did you ride in the rain? Vx1 has practically a gaping hole right on top of the potentiometer.
Water entering that would either mess it up instantly, or later on corrode the semiconductive surface plate/disc/band/whatever they chose, the tracking pin or both inside

I saw your post and opened mine up prior to the bench test. Thanks for sharing that! Everything in the transmitter looked proper. I am thinking it is a borked receiver.

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I’d measure the resistance between each of the pins of that potentiometer, while turned off, while pushing and pulling the throttle. It should be relatively exponential, but obviously predictable. Spikes in values means it’s fucked

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I don’t have any experience with the vx1 remote but I’ve seen close to a dozen reports of it not working correctly with the unity now. I’m sensing a trend…

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any sense of uart vs ppm mode on those reports?

because I’m not sure why the unity would change it’s reliablity.

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Me either, but I’ve seen uart mentioned most often. Just a sideline observation.

Maybe this helps a bit?

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Has anyone tried dickyho’s normal mounts with pneumatics?

Axle to motor distance is adjustable between 77~81mm
I would want to fit 15~16t to 60t belt drive and 1 idler.

I have calculated that i would roughly need 365mm belts (maybe 370 with the idler?) but i’m hoping to get some advice from someone who did it already before me before throwing money into the issue.
Help?

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anecdotal evidence at best, when I bought a Kaly i also bought a second Hoyt receiver, and the Vx1 that came with the board has operated flawlessly connection-wise for many months and miles, on a Unity… I’m not planning on knock on wood opening the enclosure up and swapping to a hoyt till I need to…

only thing that is borked on the VX1 is the voltage LEDs my board is depleted when two LEDs flash down to one lit…

I kin deal with that!

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The problem was solved by using a Vx1 Non Vesc receiver.

if by vesc you mean uart, there’s no difference in uart vs ppm vx1 receiver. just different cabling.

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Ppm. I was told different. Went with the Non Vesc and it’s still working.
The one for Vesc 6 didn’t work on ppm. Unless it was bad out of the box new.

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I could be wrong. but 90% sure I’m not. pretty sure it’s just the different pinouts on v6 vs v4 and uart vs ppm.

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Unfortunately, with Flipsky, that’s not very uncommon and you always consider the possibility

QC costs money, ya know

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I’m aware of that now.
Had to fix some Flipsky stuff to make it work.
But I’ll admit after inspecting and fixing there F ups it’s working good now.

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yup can confirm the Rx and Tx pins are swapped… I just repinned some BLE modules yesterday

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which press fit kegel wheel pulley works for BKB dual kit? so far i’ve only seen bolt on ones.

Have you seen this thread?

https://forum.esk8.news/t/push-fit-pulley-options-a-guide/

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BKB doesn’t have kegel adapter anymore.
dickyho, Fatboy and EboardSolutionsboth are either 15 or 16mm, all require longer axle
haggy would require 6001 bearing to fit on 8mm axle, which can be done, but i want something easier
I haven’t seen moon’s pulley, unless someone sells it

It should be possible to use caliber etruck if I want to use 15mm pulley?

OMG please use @Boardnamics BN184 trucks over Caliber E

It’s literally completely compatible except ten times better. Not seven times better — a full ten times better — and only slightly more expensive.

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My man! Rope him in!!!

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