Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

[Movation]

Fuck your right I was thinking 3.3v rail. Still wouldn’t risk it.
Part I killed was the 5 to 3.3 reg.

[Movation]

@LPU - Lil Power Unit Esk8 Dev

VESC Power Unit

Sounds like the best solution to date. When the pcbs come out I put me down for 2

[Bavioze]

Hey guys, quick question, not my first bms soldered, however its the first daly, and they want the tabs on the + terminal, however i soldered them on the - of the battery, safety and stuff (learnt it from you :p).

So do i need to solder the balance wires to the + terminal or can i keep them on the- tabs and move the former - of the balance cables to the + of the pack? And if i can do that will it be +,10,9 till 1?

[Sigmur]

Ok thank you, i think i understand what you’re saying. I looked around and frying this chip seems to be a common problem, so i won’t take any chances since flipsky’s quality seems to be total random.

I have a few buck converters back home and i’ll probably put one in when i get back. I was looking for a relatively safe quick and dirty solution that doesn’t require any extra hardware.

Meh it’s ok, i have other options and i’ll just ride slower .

[kcheng5]

When I hold my motor can and try to wiggle the motor shaft, there is no noticeable movement by eye but I can feel the smallest movement in the shaft. If I listen very closely, I can also hear the slightest movement in the shaft. Is this an issue with my motor bearings? If so, I have maytech 6734 motors and was wondering where I could buy the right bearings for them. I think this is causing my motors to make a very loud rattling noise when I push full throttle. If anyone has a link to a thread where someone has shown how to replace the bearings, this would be very much appreciated.

[b264]

@kcheng5

If anyone has a link to a thread where someone has shown how to replace the bearings, this would be very much appreciated.

This isn’t quite that, but you can get a general idea of what it will take

Assembling a BLDC motor [serious]

How I assemble a BLDC motor. Starting with a stator, a rotor, three bearings, a circlip, a circlip tool, some spacers, oil, three M4x8 bolts and a wrench for them, a hammer, an 8mm shoulder bolt, a dry washcloth, a motor pulley, a motor mount plate, maybe a tiny piece of griptape/sandpaper, and maybe a skateboard wheel bearing spacer: First, I start with the stator [20200629_011846] bolt it to a mount plate [20200629_011955] grab a shoulder bolt or something else [20200629_013245] I l…

But first I would evaluate whether that’s actually the problem.

There is also this

How to hand-test a BLDC motor [SRO]

Sometimes if you’re buying used, or troubleshooting, and need a quick way to see if anything might be wrong, you can test a BLDC motor with only your hands. It’s not the most accurate test in the world, but catches most problems. [f5c1e17e62e9f244432bf763be93746978c88931%20(copy)] Ensure motor phase wires are not connected to an ESC or anything else. Verify the motor spins without grinding or rubbing. Put a tad of sideways stress on the shaft and push it and pull it (while turning) to veri…

[kcheng5]

Thanks, that assembly post helped a lot with finding the bearings and seeing how to put the motor together. I just checked and there is play in the motor shaft on one side but not the other so I think it may be the issue of a bearing. Is there anything else I should be checking that may be the cause of the motor shaft moving in the slightest bit when I wiggle it?

[NuclearDynamic]

Hey!

I currently have a 1wd 5055 270kv, focbox, 2 lipo (5000mah 20c each) setup.
Being really gullible when I did this, what is the best possible way to boost the torque in the setup (maintaining 1wd setup as well).

I’m thinking of getting a 190 kv motor, but am confused on how to change the battery setup with this change (or if i really need to). Not worried on range to much, prioritizing mainly on carry myself on the board.

Also on the eskate-builders forum, there’s a lot of links that structure the main threads. would be great to direct me there as well!

[b264]

What voltage is your battery?

[b264]

A lot of folks have already migrated off the old enertion forum

[NuclearDynamic]

each one is 11.1 V, 3s.

[NuclearDynamic]

Thanks for helping me out btw. Kinda figured it sorta declined w/ the enertion drama.

also how do the markets/group buys work here on the forum? Wanted to get an enertion-style mount, don’t have metal fabrication stuff but .stl is open source.

[Venom121212]

Thoughts on using a flange nut painted with blue loctite vs a normal lock nut?

M6 threaded kingpin bolt for reference.

[Flasher]

@NuclearDynamic

each one is 11.1 V, 3s

Are they connected in series or in parallel?
Lowering your kV should give you decent torque compared to before.

[Flasher]

Noob battery question.

20s14p 2800mah 10c
What’s my max charge current?
Can this be determined with this info. Chinese are hard to communicate with about getting the datasheet

[whaddys]

how fucked would my torque be with 78mm wheels, 13s4p 30Q battery, 1.6:1 gear ratio and 2X 200KV motors? The question for me lies with 200KV or 170KV motors? Or should I go 190? I’m more interested in torque but wondering if I’m gonna have enough with the 200KV motors. BAHHHHH

[kalebludlow]

I would say anywhere from 20-30A but without knowing what chemistry and form factor I can’t say more

[Flasher]

@kalebludlow

chemistry

Lithium ion 18650. It’s from an AliExpress shop with excellent ratings and reviews. They called the cells “codd power” but I know that’s just a Chinese Branding

[kalebludlow]

It would depend on the BMS, but if they’re offering a 50/100A BMS then I’d say you wouldn’t be charging at more than 10A.

https://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Battery-Electric-bicycle-Scooter/dp/B01MQ1VPLO

This similar product has harging spec listed as 3A so maybe that’s correct

[Flasher]

@kalebludlow That’s still pretty great. Gives me about 4hrs of charge according to my math. They can put in a xiaoxiang bms if I request it