In my experience, if the enclosure can fit a 30q cell, it can also fit a daly bms with a flipsky antispark on top.
If the esc leaves enough space on the side (dual? 2 mini’s?) It fits like a glove in there, meaning more batteries
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Erf, that’s the kind of hidden “feature” i was afraid of. Thank you !
I pack mine rock solid with cells if I didn’t use a 5v ubec I might have room. But my Daly BMSs are always benched too fat. They are great BMS if there was a Kevin Smith 2020 version of them I would use them exclusively Dickyho has them at a great price too.
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The 5V comes from the DRV8302 chip so you can find the real specs here
So the actual chip is rated for a minimum of 1.8A on the 5V supply but you need to deduct any current the ESC itself is drawing from it since the MCU and everything run from that.
I think you can pull 400mA without issue.
However, understand that drawing too much and killing your DRV will take down the MCU, your entire ESC, and you will lose brakes, in the event of a malfunction.
It’s best to use a separate supply like this for example
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Fuck your right I was thinking 3.3v rail. Still wouldn’t risk it.
Part I killed was the 5 to 3.3 reg.
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Sounds like the best solution to date. When the pcbs come out I put me down for 2
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Hey guys, quick question, not my first bms soldered, however its the first daly, and they want the tabs on the + terminal, however i soldered them on the - of the battery, safety and stuff (learnt it from you :p).
So do i need to solder the balance wires to the + terminal or can i keep them on the- tabs and move the former - of the balance cables to the + of the pack? And if i can do that will it be +,10,9 till 1?
Ok thank you, i think i understand what you’re saying. I looked around and frying this chip seems to be a common problem, so i won’t take any chances since flipsky’s quality seems to be total random.
I have a few buck converters back home and i’ll probably put one in when i get back. I was looking for a relatively safe quick and dirty solution that doesn’t require any extra hardware.
Meh it’s ok, i have other options and i’ll just ride slower 
.
When I hold my motor can and try to wiggle the motor shaft, there is no noticeable movement by eye but I can feel the smallest movement in the shaft. If I listen very closely, I can also hear the slightest movement in the shaft. Is this an issue with my motor bearings? If so, I have maytech 6734 motors and was wondering where I could buy the right bearings for them. I think this is causing my motors to make a very loud rattling noise when I push full throttle. If anyone has a link to a thread where someone has shown how to replace the bearings, this would be very much appreciated.
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This isn’t quite that, but you can get a general idea of what it will take
But first I would evaluate whether that’s actually the problem.
There is also this
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Thanks, that assembly post helped a lot with finding the bearings and seeing how to put the motor together. I just checked and there is play in the motor shaft on one side but not the other so I think it may be the issue of a bearing. Is there anything else I should be checking that may be the cause of the motor shaft moving in the slightest bit when I wiggle it?
Hey!
I currently have a 1wd 5055 270kv, focbox, 2 lipo (5000mah 20c each) setup.
Being really gullible when I did this, what is the best possible way to boost the torque in the setup (maintaining 1wd setup as well).
I’m thinking of getting a 190 kv motor, but am confused on how to change the battery setup with this change (or if i really need to). Not worried on range to much, prioritizing mainly on carry myself on the board.
Also on the eskate-builders forum, there’s a lot of links that structure the main threads. would be great to direct me there as well!
What voltage is your battery?
A lot of folks have already migrated off the old enertion forum
each one is 11.1 V, 3s.
Thanks for helping me out btw. Kinda figured it sorta declined w/ the enertion drama.
also how do the markets/group buys work here on the forum? Wanted to get an enertion-style mount, don’t have metal fabrication stuff but .stl is open source.
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Thoughts on using a flange nut painted with blue loctite vs a normal lock nut?
M6 threaded kingpin bolt for reference.
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Are they connected in series or in parallel?
Lowering your kV should give you decent torque compared to before.
Noob battery question.
20s14p 2800mah 10c
What’s my max charge current?
Can this be determined with this info. Chinese are hard to communicate with about getting the datasheet
how fucked would my torque be with 78mm wheels, 13s4p 30Q battery, 1.6:1 gear ratio and 2X 200KV motors? The question for me lies with 200KV or 170KV motors? Or should I go 190? I’m more interested in torque but wondering if I’m gonna have enough with the 200KV motors. 
BAHHHHH