When you connect the vesc to your computer, in the firmware tab, you will see it says “FW:x.x”. That’s what he’s asking.
They cause more problems than they’re worth, sometimes.
The Amass 3-pin connectors are great because A: there’s only one to wrangle instead of three, and B: you can zip tie them together to keep them from backing out over time with vibration.
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It’s possible for the communication between your remote and your receiver to be interrupted, either by external noise or a problem in the remote or receiver itself.
Hi!
Any idea where I can find bluetooth module for sending real time data? I have this (
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dY6VT44 ), but it didn’t send data (I found that new firmware didn’t support it) Also, I don’t want to buy Flipsky bluetooth module… Something for around 10-20 dollars?
why not the fs one?
I don’t know if the AT-09 will work.
The HM-10 will work with Ackmaniac firmware but not Trampa firmware.
The nrf51 modules like the Scepterr or Flipshit ones will work with the newest Trampa firmware.
Not hard at all …this tool made it really easy. My maytech motirs did the same thing I think its the bearing in my case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGS9N3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VZtaFb2QMHXSM
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Alright I have a noob question after all this time
running dual VESC6 by trampa and feather uart remote.
Right now only the motor that has the remote connected spins up. if I use the pc to spin up, I can make either motor work. SO I know they work. But the UART signal just isnt being forwared to teh the other vesc
@xsynatic maybe I saw you had a similar setup
If I move the uart to the other vesc, then that one spins and the other doesnt
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Is there a known source for some good budget slide gear? I already have a good helmet, just looking to pick up some extra protection without blowing my wallet apart
Neither worked. I guess ill try increase the Current until its smoother?
That current is probably high enough.
Does the motor pass the hand test?
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I mean, you can try a higher setting but I wouldn’t go much over double those numbers. For all 3 numbers. I would hand test the motor
I just hand tested it and all seemed good. Also the belts aren’t tight during detection but I could try it with no belts attached?
Since the volts and not the amps are important for top speed, as far as I understood, are the Esk8 calculators for nominal voltage aka 3.6V / Cell or 4.2V / Cell?
Don’t know if I should go:
- 190KV | 15T/40T | 110mm @90% efficiency 48kmh weighted
- 190KV | 15T/44T | 110mm @90% efficiency 44kmh weighted
People here say to subtract like 5kmh of top speed for real values?
I want to be able to hit just over 40kmh, the rest of the power should be used for torque and more importantly battery life.
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I get to 50km/h with single 190kv 6374 | 15/36 | 110mm but not sure if i ran 10s or 12s. (can check though) 100+kg
edit : 10s
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20200705_131002
It feels so gross 
. I can’t really push my board to start with straps either. I might just wait till I go 10s and just run FOC
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Yeah that’s way too fast for me on my streetboard 
Calculator says I should reach 56 or something, so that proves the 5kmh subtraction thing…
Alright thanks!
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Do a hip flick
Although with bindings I would use HFI or sensors
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