270/271/272/273 are all “high strength” with slightly different properties, but they should work in place of 262/263.
Seems like 262/263 are a little better for stainless or chromate coated fasteners than the 27* series, but that’s the only big difference I can find.
Loctite 290 is often forgotten, but it’s my favorite one.
You can also apply it before OR after something is assembled.
This means you can work on it until you get everything working how you want it to work, and then Loctite everything without taking it apart again.
Don’t want to use my brain nor does it want to be used right now.
What motors are we using for 16s-20s builds? Do many of our main motors get fucked over 12s? Can typical Maytech 6355’s be used 16s?
Thank you folks, that makes a bit more sense of my confusingly vague googling. The bit that trips me up is I was under the impression that green was always retaining compounds (not true apparently) and also that retaining compounds are different in nature than thread lockers (still a bit fuzzy there). I also saw very conflicting advice on green in threadlocker being for wicking lockers, which is true of Brian’s 290 but I’m mostly sure isn’t true of 270. Part of the reason the vagueness is annoying is that for 290 most material specifies low viscosity but when it’s not specified for 270 it’s hard to tell if that’s medium or low or high
The specific use I bought it for is for affixing axles to BN220 hangers so it doesn’t matter if I can never get them out again (I think) but in general I’d like to have useful stuff around. Only problem is I ran into an old friend on the way home who has a machine shop right next to my house, the bastard has excess boxes of 263 apparently
I thought my motor bearings needed oil - odd since they’re brand new.
Turns out the “whirring” noise is the motor c clip making contact with the boardnamics xl mount plate.
I see 3 options
I’m leaning toward the dremel option but I need some second opinions.
i would use washer to space it out, but im the lazy type 
File the mount away where the circlip touches it
Thanks Brian. It’s such a small amount of aluminum to remove, it will be a quick job with a dremel.
I recommend a cutting tool like a carbide burr, or a disposable abrasive like a sanding drum, rather than a mounted stone for grinding aluminum. The soft aluminum has a nasty tendency to gum up the spaces between abrasive particles on stones, and cause them to clog up, overheat, and in some extreme cases, crack and explode under the stress of high speed.
Not too big of a deal for a ten-gram dremel stone, but I’ve heard stories of that happening to bench grinders too.
anyone know the biggest wheel pulley dkp with evolve mounts can handle? I want to run 8 inch wheels on 15 inch dkp and am worried the 72t pulley will be to big and hit the motor pulley or cause skipping.
Are there extended mounts for bigger pulleys? or mounts with idlers?
Thanks!
Yeah, dremel’s carbide bits are definitely the way to go. I’ve had the same experience with their so called “grinding wheels”…
TBF aluminum will have that effect on most grinding wheels or cutting disks. You need to get specialized wheels for aluminum and other nonferrous metals.
I use the carbide burrs for nickel removal and its great, they don’t even wear out at all
Are the Xenith settings per side or universal? Battery amps mainly.
in vesctool, per side
in unity / xenith UI app, total
Thanks. 
Good to know I’m not the only one. Your router job looks super clean. nicely done Al
