I was on a mission and i wasn’t taking no for an answer. Its survived 10km so far 
6 Likes
That’s baller.
2 Likes
I think flipping the mounts around would work. Thank you for the idea.
1 Like
I’m way late but had this dilemma earlier today too; if you put the axle in just a bit so it’s not contacting both of the bearings but just the nearest one, you can apply a bit of force up and down and it pops out quite cleanly
2 Likes
Hi. Noobd question here. I have been looking at spark plugs and found this Anti spark power switch carefully made in italy by eskating. I have 4x ZIPPY Flightmax 3000mAh 5S1P 20C Lipo Pack w/XT60 | HobbyKing series & parallel. so 10S2P, right? The above anti spark says it is rated for 12S max. But, it says the amperage fuse is max 100A. If my math is correct, I would need at least 120A fuse right? Because the battery has a rated 20c current discharge, and in current I would have 6Ah (because parallel) so the current would work out to be 6x20 = 120, correct?
It also says burst 40C, which would mean I would need 240. Do I need to find a different spark plug?
eskating dot eu is the pinnacle of bad customer service in my experience.
I would recommend this method over that switch anyway, so it’s a moot point.
2 Likes
For aluminum, I recommend a cutting implement, rather than a grinding one, as the aluminum tends to clog the abrasive very quickly. Something like a carbide burr is probably the easiest method (and will work with your dremel).
4 Likes
That’s the maximum theoretical output current of that battery config, but in reality neither you or the fuse will ever see that. Plus the fact that most LiPo battery manufactures fudge the “C” rating to a pretty high degree, I personally wouldn’t run them much past half that, both for better capacity, and less chance of damaging/immolating the pack.
(Plus, most folks don’t fuse the main discharge anyway - If it pops, you have no brakes.)
5 Likes
a quarter… tops (for me)
3 Likes
As both already said, eskating EU is truly terrible service, and often weirdly inflated prices. Not everything is bad, but the stuff with his brand on it is either medium-crappy ABS enclosures or very questionable electronics and wheels. On top of the markup he sometimes ships stuff out so slowly it would have been faster to buy from china
Also +1 again on the current comments; you’re not going to be able to use anywhere near 120A from the battery even if it could supply it (it can’t, C numbers are wildly inflated). Check some metr logs in build threads if you want to see what battery current really gets used, this monster build of the year finalist didn’t even make it past 65A from the battery
5 Likes
Exactly. Many kilometers after, riding on the mountains for the past few days. My max battery current ever was 79A, and that was for a fraction of a second.
Usually it looks like this
What I have learned from this build? Temperature limits are much bigger headache than Amps limits.
7 Likes
@glyphiks Flipping the mount was a good call! I used some longer motor mount screws, and the 6380s spacing is perfect.
6 Likes
I have a motor which is rated at max 80A and a mini vesc rated at max 50A. Will this cause issues, i.e. will the motor ask for 80 , get less and then strain it because it gets too little current? I am assuming the max the system will be able to ask the battery for is 50A, right?
No
You control this when you set up up you board. Max battery amps and max motor amps.
3 Likes
Nope. The ESC is the only part of the system with any intelligence or control. The battery is just a dumb power source, and the motors are just dumb hunks of iron, copper and neodymium. You can set whatever current limits are needed in the ESC.
Also, motor current very explicitly is NOT battery current. You can draw 10A from your battery while having 100A flowing through the motors under some conditions.
4 Likes
It’s a VESC so you set the parameters.
You meant the screws to bolt the mount to the clamp right? You shouldn’t need longer motor screws…
2 Likes
No, because the ESC rating is “battery current” amperes and the motor rating is “motor current” amperes.
Also the ESCs are often overrated and the motor you can often exceed the current rating as long as it’s not continuous. Don’t be surprised if 25A / 110A is what works well.
4 Likes
I used longer motor screws because the dickyho plates have a cutout for the screw heads on one side but not the other.
I also used longer screws on the clamp/plate mounting.
4 Likes
What Trampa dampa hardness does equal the Trampa barrels?
My barrels have become unstable or rather have turned into a dkp feeling. Its steers as it should and at a certain point it gives in and steers a lot which is mildly sketchy.
1 Like