This sounds off to me, iirc you only loose 4(ish)mm than a straight double stack
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All the math I can find says the formula would be 2r+✓3r which is the math I did but idk. I don’t have 3 18650’s on hand to check lmao.
It doesn’t sound right tho…
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Ok see now I need to know why this equation is everywhere and simply doesn’t work
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Must be operator error, I did the equation using 9mm for r with 2 layers and got 33.59mm
If the cells are slightly over 9mm in diameter (they often are) then it could be ~34.5mm
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As high as you want to make it feel good.
That being said, -20A ☓ 2 is pretty stiff.
Maybe try -30A ☓ 2?
As long as you’re not coupled to a car or locomotive you shouldn’t burn anything up under normal esk8 use. Keep in mind that number is adjusting the high speed brakes, so if it’s low speed brakes that are too weak, lower the “Motor max brake” number instead.
I’m pretty braindead today @.@ I had a cold or something it’s gone now but I am indeed sleep deprived
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No it’s brakes at top speed. I want the brake power to be a lot higher and a little more instant. I can brace my body for high speed braking but if I’m going 50-60kph on a bike path and amid runs out in front of me I need to be able to brake fast, just an example. I’m gonna change it to 30 hopefully that feels like the insane old settings I used to use. (-99A Brake and 90A battery X2)
Hello, I have a small issue regarding my board and unfortunately I don’t have a video showing it but when I give very little throttle (10-15%) around 20 ish mph the board starts to induce speed wobbles. When I punch on the throttle all the way up to 30 ish and keep the throttle at about 30 to 50 percent to maintain 30mph it’s still fine. It’s only around 10 to 15 percent throttle where it starts to give wobbles. I am using a flipshit vx2 with a Spintend UBOX V2 on originally beta (I think 74) 5.3 and had no issues with that firmware until now. I updated to the official 5.3 tonight and plan on testing tommorow but if anyone has other suggestions of what it could be please let me know.
Do you need to adjust the settings on both sides of a dual vesc? I’m using a stormcore and if I select the other side of the vesc in vesc tool, then my settings change back to what they were previously (which makes sense). Is changing the settings twice the correct way to do things or am I missing something?
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yes
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Oh. So there’s no “Write settings to all vescs” setting to toggle?
Depending on the ESC there can be, but it tends to be a little flaky, still better to just do it twice. You can set up all your stuff on one side, save an XML of those settings, then upload that XML to the other one to save a bit of time.
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Yeah that’s the plan running the lights using the P- port of the BMS. Is it needed to place the positive wire before the loopkey? Because I was thinking about placing it behind the loopkey, so it would’nt be always on (only when loopkey is inserted).
In case I would do it before the loopkey, could you use a ‘normal’ latching switch that way?
Either will work, but I personally like being able to run the ancillary systems without fully powering up the board, and vise versa, which means placing the positive before the loop key.
Any latching switch will work, although you probably want something that’s at least somewhat water-resistant and robust. The round latching buttons on Amazon are pretty cheap and can even be had with different colors of illumination and different symbols on them, although I dunno how far I’d trust them re: IP rating. You can get basically the same kind of switch from a more reputable manufacturer through folks like Mouser and DigiKey, for a bit more money.
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thx!
There are specific fw and app that can do that. But in general, no.
U can write data to one side, backup ur setting, canbus forward then load the setting u backup. It’s just as fast with a few extra click
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I’ve done a backpack battery. Read a lot of build threads about backpack batteries. Simply a terrible idea for most motorsports, only kind of practical for ebikes.
also this particular one is probably only good for about 20-25A if that.
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It’s also prohibitevly expensive for what it is lol.
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