nor roll-to-start
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They have roll to start. You just have to keep kick pushing, and a that point you can take your belts off. Leave your remote at home too. Oops that’s a pushboard.
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Especially for having a 10S battery, aka lipos in series. If I have a loop key, it’s like a key to a car (old fashioned) I lose it. Guess I can’t ride till I make a new one, having a power button just makes it 10x easier. Same time I don’t want to spend anymore money then I have to lol
I saw someone put a loopkey plug in their remote so they could plug it into the remote while the board was off. I forget whom, but that was smart.
But anyway, I don’t lose them, but if I did, and still wanted to use them, that’s an idea. If you lose the remote you’re just screwed anyway.
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I made a little box for my remote when the boards not in use on my nightstand that has a little hole for the charge port and just a place I’ll know where to always put the remote, I just came to see how I can bypass my BMS for charge only lol
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This is how I had it before
Edit: I just solved my own dumbass question 
I followed @mutantbass charge only wiring guide 
Where is this wire at the bottom with the arrow pointing at it?
So I got the negative wire of the charge port connected to the C- and the positive wire connected to the fuse that leads to the positive wire of the harness, where does the B- wire connect to, or that goes to the negative wire of the harness
It’s the same connection as B0 (if that BMS has B0) which is battery negative. (B-)
Otherwise, you are forcing the entire charge current through the tiny balance wire and the JST connector. If the BMS even has a B0.
Let me see if the BMS has a -B, what happens if it doesn’t?
Then your charge current is limited to the 1A or so the JST connector can handle.
How many pins are on the balance connector?
I’ve never seen a BMS without a B-.
Some don’t have B0 though.
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Absolutely; the battery will charge through that connection.
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Alright perfect, so I just need the B- soldered and that’s all for the charge only I got spare 18awg lying around from when I did the charge port, just need to get more solder
If the BMS has a B0 then it’s only used for charging.
If the BMS doesn’t have a B0 then it’s also used for balancing and to turn on the BMS itself.
One more than number of P-packs = has a B0
Same as number of P-packs = hasn’t a B0
Assuming a “bypass / charge-only” configuration
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I’m considering taking my busted tbdd’s, bolting them to a table, and using them as a sanding station. But im kinda stupid, so, there’s that. How would I go about doing that in a cheap, and preferably uncomplicated way? Can I even run them off of a wallplug? If I don’t care about variable speed, could I run them with a simple on off switch, instead of an esc? Is this even worth the effort?
You can’t, but you could use a really cheap ESC like an old VESC 4.12
You’d still need a transformer, some diodes, and a capacitor to step down the wall voltage to a DC value like 40 volts ish. Or a battery and a charger, preferably keeping it around 50% SOC
Yeah I kinda figured xD
If I buy an esc it’s goin in a board, so I probably will not pursue this route.
You could use a super-cheap non-esk8 ESC (like one for RC planes). No bells and whistles, no extra features, just apply power and throttle signal, and it spins. You can get a “RC servo tester” for a few bucks that will generate the throttle signal for you.
If you don’t need them to run at super high speed, a hacked computer PSU will provide lots of current, but only at 12 volts. 24/36/48 volt power supplies can also be had, but usually not as cheap.
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