I can dig out pictures in a bit but the short answer is: have a direct path from the battery to ESC. Put your discharge leads (usually 12AWG or 10AWG) directly from the pack to an XT90, and plug your ESC into that
Thing is I got a smart enhanced antispark connected to the battery harness
As far as I’ve gathered from this forum, an antispark switch is either a waste of money or just a bad idea, an antispark loopkey is a much more recommended solution.
I was recommended to get one when I started the build. Also it’s just good to have a power switch imo, the one I got has a lot of positive reviews
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An antispark loopkey is a power switch. A better power switch, and cheaper, and less likely to cause an issue. I’m sure @b264 could point you to 10x the positive reviews of loopkeys.
“Better” is a tricky word, because it all depends on what you’re optimizing your design for.
Loopkeys absolutely smash the “cost” and “reliability” categories — and also are near the top of the “size” and “weight” categories.
However, they are near the bottom of the “svelte” and “appearance” categories, giving the machine a very DIY, hacked-together feel to it, and a lot of folks don’t like that.
Some folks have made much better looking loopkeys but still nowhere near as refined as a production vehicle would have
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Also loop keys don’t have an auto-shutoff feature.
I love my stormcore power buttons
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nor roll-to-start
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They have roll to start. You just have to keep kick pushing, and a that point you can take your belts off. Leave your remote at home too. Oops that’s a pushboard.
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Especially for having a 10S battery, aka lipos in series. If I have a loop key, it’s like a key to a car (old fashioned) I lose it. Guess I can’t ride till I make a new one, having a power button just makes it 10x easier. Same time I don’t want to spend anymore money then I have to lol
I saw someone put a loopkey plug in their remote so they could plug it into the remote while the board was off. I forget whom, but that was smart.
But anyway, I don’t lose them, but if I did, and still wanted to use them, that’s an idea. If you lose the remote you’re just screwed anyway.
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I made a little box for my remote when the boards not in use on my nightstand that has a little hole for the charge port and just a place I’ll know where to always put the remote, I just came to see how I can bypass my BMS for charge only lol
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This is how I had it before
Edit: I just solved my own dumbass question 
I followed @mutantbass charge only wiring guide 
Where is this wire at the bottom with the arrow pointing at it?
So I got the negative wire of the charge port connected to the C- and the positive wire connected to the fuse that leads to the positive wire of the harness, where does the B- wire connect to, or that goes to the negative wire of the harness
It’s the same connection as B0 (if that BMS has B0) which is battery negative. (B-)
Otherwise, you are forcing the entire charge current through the tiny balance wire and the JST connector. If the BMS even has a B0.
Let me see if the BMS has a -B, what happens if it doesn’t?
Then your charge current is limited to the 1A or so the JST connector can handle.
How many pins are on the balance connector?
I’ve never seen a BMS without a B-.
Some don’t have B0 though.
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