What are you guys’ opinion on using heel straps on mountainboards? I’ve been looking at some trick videos on YouTube of mountainboarders, and the mobility you get without heel straps look quite appealing, and they’re still able to stand perfectly on the boards. And they don’t drag their boards with them every time they bail.
The question is though, would it be a good idea to use/not use heel straps while offroading in forests and driving on mountainbike tracks?
There’s a lot of vibration in the forest, so maybe that’s the main reason to use heel straps in this situation?
Ok, so just setting up my new stormcore. I noticed in setup that the “slow ABS Current limit” is set to false whereas when i previously setup my flipsky vesc it was set to True. Can someone explain this setting for me?
Thankyou.
I have another issue now. My Flipsky VX2 remote is pairing to the receiver but the motors are not responding to the remote. My motors are working as per the setup test but the remote is not able to control the motors. I have traced the wires to the receiver and discovered i needed to swap tx with rx. This is now done but still have the same problem. Here’s a screenshot of my remote settings in vesc tool, remote setup on the remote itself appears correct (i’m assuming stormcore is still fsesc or do i need to change to focbox?)
Starting with the easiest rather than most likely:
Do you have a pic of the UART connector where you swapped the TX and RX? The connectors have a different number of pins, so it’s possible to connect it shifted over by one pin even after you swap the TX/RX
After that, bit of background. The stormcore is designed by the same primary engineer as the Foxbox Unity, and has a lot of similarities even though it’s a significantly upgraded next generation. I’m trying to dig up the useful threads on VX2s and unities, it’s a common issue getting them set up.
I did get mine running properly on a unity but struggling to remember what fixed it. I think it was a combination of
Not having other UART devices, plugged in including the unity’s BT module
Toggling/finding which one worked between FSESC and FOCBOX in the VX2
Swearing
Actually I’m fairly sure it was this, the UART thing only caused problems with telemetry not with basic functioning:
Thanks so much, this worked! I now move on to my next problem(s):
1 - The VX2 is not picking up the speed and displaying it on the remote (i assumed this would still work with the Stormcore…)
2 - It’s hard for me to say for sure but i am 90% sure the speed setting on the remote is making no different (the reason i’m not 100% sure is because my deck is in the mail so running this by hold my rear truck up whilst I test, but i’m pretty sure i should be able to notice the difference between low speed and high speed)
Ayyyy nice. So again, easiest first: your throttle doesn’t control speed, it controls power, like in a car. Sure if you want it to go more fast it needs more throttle, but it very much depends on the driving conditions and you can’t compare throttle position vs speed under different conditions. 50% throttle on a board is a very different died when there’s a 40kg kid vs a 100kg me on it. Because it takes very little power to free spin the wheels (even gripping with hand strength for resistance), you’re not gonna notice a huge difference between power modes. Ride with a person on it, if you still don’t notice a difference then there might be an issue.
Speed display: this is the telemetry issue I mentioned. For me it was one or both of:
Extra UART devices confused the unity + VX2 combo
VX2 expected telemetry data in a particular format, and whichever Foxbox/FSESC setting I set it on was wrong.
I haven’t got a super clean answer, but I would give good odds that just switching up the remote “ESC mode” and/or making sure there aren’t other UART devices will fix it. And I’m 99.9% sure changing these will not bring back your earlier problem of not driving the wheels, that was almost definitely caused by the “Control Type” input setting
listening carefully when I have the thumb wheel ever so slightly pushed forward I think there is a difference so I’ll park that as a non-issue.
On the other issue I have tried switching the esc mode on the remote but doesn’t change anything.
Given the app settings were wrong for control type, do you think there are any other settings I could try?
Worst case scenario, when my flipshite esc toasted it did some damage to the receiver which is stopping the telemetry coming back to the remote
IMO it’s very unlikely that the receiver is partly damaged, UART being the relatively complicated digital interface that it is it either all works or is all dead. The reason for it not to be displayed is not so much that the receiver isn’t sending it, but that the remote isn’t set up right to display it
One troubleshooting tip that could help though: whenever you make a change to the remote settings, turn both the board and the remote off and back on again. The initialisation routine solves a lot of problems. Should have mentioned this earlier because I tore my hair out when I found it, but it’s been a while since I messed with a VX2 so I’m fuzzy on the details
I have lower confidence in this, so feel free to go against it or take correction from others: I don’t think there are many (really any) settings of substance in VESC tool for UART that help with this stuff. It’s basically just “is it on” and “did you turn on control input in the VESC remote section”.
So one of my sensor wires got cut and cant get it fixed for a week, so i just redid motor detection and set them to sensorless. My board would top out at 28mph and now since i set it to sensorless now it will only go 24 mph, so does running sensorless lower top speed some?
the unity cannot handle the extra polling rate from 2 uart devices at the same time, so it just goes into no respond mode. this can be shown if u have the stock ble module (uart) and vx2 (uart), once u turn on the remote, any app setting will not save because the esc is simply not responding to any input.
Yeah it’s definitely not ideal, but I think in reality the majority of people either don’t use external UART devices or don’t use the BT module so it’s not a huge problem. It’s such a pain having to find out the hard way though
Situation:
I’m using @Boardnamics adjustable baseplates on both my front and back truck, the rear truck is topmount and my front truck is dropthrough on an LY Switchblade.
Issue:
The boardnamics adjustable baseplates tend to come slightly loose and jiggle, I can easily tighten my rear bolt ad it’s accessible but with the front truck being dropthrough I have to completely remove the baseplate and hangar just to tighten the single bolt half a degree. I need to do this at least weekly if not more often.
The question:
How do I stop needing to constantly tighten the adjustable baseplate bolt without resorting to something semi-permanent like loctite? I’m already using a locking nut.
Neither of these have changed the only thing changed was setting it to run sensorless and ive checked every setting i could and they all look the same so im stumped.
