What if you used the moonbeams instead, because they are carbon composite? They should incorporate really, really well into a fiberglass composite.
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It’d be nicer; I just have a couple pairs of these lying around anyways.
Edit to add: I still had to use the search bar cuz moons product pages don’t have pictures, @moon why don’t your product pages have pictures?
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What’s the lowest positive ramping time that can be safely used? I can go all the way down to 0 but I have no clue if it’s safe or not and don’t want to risk burning up hardware.
Haven’t used my 7.5 fuse yet but when I picked up I noticed the tips were like this. Not sure if it’s still useable
Well, someone has sure used that fuse. 
Small chance it could blow at a lower-than-expected level depending on how it was used before. Just get a new one IMO.
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It wasn’t like that when I got it, so I’m not sure if it blown on its own or what 
Auto parts stores also stock them.
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Do you have a photo of it without the thumb on it? It’s probably fine, especially for charging.
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Wait…before you said you hadn’t used it, but it wasn’t like that when you got it? Then how did the terminals get scratched up like that?
If it is blown then you will see the metal element in the red section separated. You can also check with a multimeter to see if it is open or not.
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While we’re talking fuses, my charger(which isn’t the fastest 12s charger, but I trust it) has a swappable glass fuse in it. I have a few extras. I haven’t bothered fusing any charge ports because I primarily use a fused charger. Am I stupid, or smart?
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The benefit of having a fused charge port is very real. I would do it. Neither time it’s saved me would have been mitigated by a charger-side fuse.
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Neither, when discussing just this topic. 
But consider this…
The charger’s fuse can help to protect the charger. However, it does nothing to protect your pack or the charge port itself from damage if there is a short circuit.
I urge you to install a charge port fuse.
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It looks like it (your photo was taken very far from the fuse) but let’s confirm…is the metal inside the red area connecting the two prongs? We cannot check everything remotely for you. You will have to confirm that the fuse is intact. Use the continuity setting on a multimeter. Check Google for the procedure.
That looks fine visually. You can check with a multimeter to be sure. I usually cut off half of the legs so they’re not so long and then just solder right to it, and use silicone or hot glue to cover it up inside the enclosure next to the charge port
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Metal does look to be intact inside. Was trying to get a good shot of the photo, just don’t know why the prongs have a yellowish look to them compared to being all sliver, since what I looked up on means blown but it’s not
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I’d still highly recommend adding a fuse to the charge port. Sure, the charger itself has a fuse, but what if, for example, someone decides to be an asshole and stick a paperclip in your charge port? Or a piece of conductive road debris makes its way in there? Or you accidentally plug something else into the charge port because your mind was elsewhere?
All of those scenarios could be saved by a charge port fuse, but not by a charger fuse.
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I don’t know either. But it cannot be for a good reason.
This is an awful lot of effort for a used fuse. Just replace it and then there is no wondering.
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I’ve been lucky so far lol. My charger sent a doorstop flying and scared the living shit out of a cat when the doorstop rolled perfectly into the middle of the jack one time. But that didn’t even kill it’s fuse.
I got a bunch of the yellow automative blade fuses anyways, next time I’m building, I’ll add one. And I’ll check my daily drivers out next time I open it, but Artem built this one and I trust it’s good. I disassembled all my other boards for now to take stock of my Lego parts anyways.
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