As long as Boundmotor/Eovan/etc. don’t fix their chinesium I would not recommend replacing them.
It’s just a matter of time before the axles will bend/break again.
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What’s the name of this part? Is there a tool to easily remove them?
Is there a tool to easily remove this bearing? This is a flipsky battlehardend motor.
It’s called a snap ring, and yes there are “snap ring pliers”
Not easily, put a rod in through the other side and tap around until it falls out, it will destroy the bearing
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a.k.a. circlip.
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I don’t think heat will be much of a problem. It was too much for me with 25 (battery) amps per side…
Thanks for the feedback.
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It’s a circlip, and a circlip tool
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So, i have one of these now.
And I’m a bit scared to do something wrong since it’s charger battery bms related. 
So, theres a 1 and 2 on the pins or what they are called. No + or - . I read somewhere it doesn’t matter, as long as the + or - from the bms, continue on the same number on both port and charger side. So how does this work? Is the 1 and 2 both - and + at the same time?
You can make them whatever you want, but what you choose needs to stay consistent, and don’t plug in other folks’ chargers to your skate, because they may use different pinouts.
I use 1 for negative and 2 for positive on these.
BTW I don’t like those connectors
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What about aluminum lock nuts for wheels and truck bolts. Bad idea to mix with steel? Not strong enough? Thinking about those cheap ones. Anodized in all sorts of colors.
Hi guys.
I seem to be having a problem after setting up my new flipsky 6384 motors where they seem to spin way too fast? My pack is 10s 42V fully charged. Stormcore 60D. 190Kv motors, geared for 28Mph ish.
Just wondering if this could be the way I set it up on the Vesc tool? Remote is reading around 45mph and it sounds baad.
Cheers
When you stand on the board, the problem will go away.
You’re controlling current/power and not speed. With no load, you get to full speed with almost no current, so it’s normal behaviour for it to go way too fast and not be able to hold a lower speed while unloaded.
You need to set all the numbers correctly to fix this
in that case on the remote itself.
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Finally pushed the button on a Stormcore 60D+. A few questions as I want to make sure I can quickly get my build back up and running (replacing a blown Flipsky esc)
- Do I need to worry about antispark or is the integrated switch taking care of that for me?
- I’m using the VX2 remote, any extra connectors or adapters I need other than what Flipsky provide?
- I’m also assuming the Flipsky hall sensor wires will plug straight into the Stormcore too?
Anything else I should have for prep?
For 1 and 3.
Id recommend an antispark. But thats just me.
And if you have the motor sensore extender cables they will plug right into the stormcore.
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Can anyone recommend a high quality heatsink thermal paste?
(or whatever the highest thermal conductivity product is to squeeze between an ESC and a heatsink)
Edit: went with Arctic MX-4 paste. Here’s hoping 8g is enough for a DV6
Thermal grizzly? I’ve always used Arctic Silver but I see the YouTube pros always using thermal grizzly.
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arctic mx4 or arctic silver 5
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Arctic Silver, Thermal Grizzly, Cryonaut, any of them are way too good to waste on an esk8 heatsink. You just won’t see any benefit at all from using them versus the cheapest thermal goop from ebay.
The heat flux just isn’t high enough, and the contact area is so large, that it just doesn’t make a difference.
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