Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Yes.

No, opposite. Low KV is more torque (per amp), the problem is increased internal resistance causing heat soak extremely fast.

TB developed AT adapters for their DD’s. They abandoned them. I don’t know if the actual reason was ever publicly stated, but likely because it multiplied the thermal issues.

No. There is an axle that goes through the entire truck, that all of the bearings run on, which is supporting the weight. There is no rider weight on the stator or magnets.

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the axle is resting in the stator with the wheels attached to the rotor though, doesn’t that mean the motor is supporting all the weight? or is that only with hubs?

No. A car isn’t supported by it’s transmission. You can remove the motor and still stand on the board and ride it. The motor slides over the axle. Force is being exerted by the motor onto the wheel when its rotating to drive it. But there isn’t weight on the motor.

See here:

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OMG this is great I finally understand how a DD is put together. the black box has been opened.

so, if one were to have a DD setup on a bent truck, could the motors just be swapped to a different truck?

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Correct.

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Yes, ususally. See here: [Order Placed] TBDD CNC STEEL Hangers

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Yes. Someone did a run of replacement trucks for the bendy stock TB DDs.

Too fast.

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I have a boundmotor DD setup on a bent truck, been on the shelf for a year because I assumed it wasn’t fixable

I would imagine because larger AT wheels intensify the problem of a 1:1 ratio. You’ll get more thermal issues from the poorer overall gearing ratio including wheel size as well, but that is because you’re making the motors try an even worse effective overall gearing.

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Just throwing it out there, the revel board DD is excellent and you can buy it separately

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Man, Paul up and disappeared.

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I just might hit up the DD motors again. I’ll put them on a flexy deck like it’s still 2020.

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Anyone have any feedback on this design?

A is for a loop key and B is for battery connection.

I plan on either 3d printing a lid or using a peice of aluminum for the lid.

I plan on securing it to the board with 4 m5 bolts into threaded inserts.

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In general the design looks fantastic, only comment would be to coerce to towards either a block of aluminum for thermal mass/heatsink but this would require a cutout on the bottom aswell. VESCs are gonna get toasty and stay toasty inside that box if youre running any considerable current, otherwise might not even be problematic.

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meepo hubs are your best option. At least they don’t randomly die and use a standard connector.

Everything else kinda sucks/is nonstandard.

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As long as Boundmotor/Eovan/etc. don’t fix their chinesium I would not recommend replacing them.
It’s just a matter of time before the axles will bend/break again.

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What’s the name of this part? Is there a tool to easily remove them?


Is there a tool to easily remove this bearing? This is a flipsky battlehardend motor.

It’s called a snap ring, and yes there are “snap ring pliers”

Not easily, put a rod in through the other side and tap around until it falls out, it will destroy the bearing

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