Yes, but it’s the detail you’ve never mentioned.
I’d be building a battery to fit the same dimensions as my pic above. As it is there it’s 50.4v top charge I do. 14s with lifepo4 a123s
It’s 98 cells, 7 in parallel, at this point, but could reconfigure for the 54v
Yea sorry missed the series number. 14 or maybe move to 15 or even 16
So 50.4 or go to 54, or 57.6. I like 54.
But forget it and too complicated trying to rearrange the cells. 50.4 it stays.
What plug u think good for that and external balancing? I’ll just use the molex I got I think.
So no I have no questions. Just stewing over here. Carry on. 
. 
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Okay so I was about to connect all the stuff to the ESC (a stormcore 60d) and I am confused and helpless.
How do I connect both a remote and a davega?
How do I connect the battery meter?
How do I best route the cables through the enclosure?
Oh and: with the hi5ber Lotus - which side would you consider the front side?
(https://www.hi5ber.com/product-page/lotus)
Sorry, I know these are probably /facepalm questions for you 
What remote?
What enclosure?
The front side is wider.
Define “best”. Are you optimizing for performance? Cost? Appearance?
Anyone used these Flipsky 5045 motors? I’m guessing they dont belong to the Battle Hardened line of motors Flipsky have been making in-house (which are great), and so should I expect Flipsky of old quality?
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All anyone can do is take a guess. Even if they have a similar setup and it hasn’t burnt up that doesn’t help you as you are not using their particular stuff.
If that’s enough then asking around might get you a consensus of guesses. This is why we add a safety margin to any voltage rating, to try to handle the inevitable unknowns.
The length and arrangement of the cables from the battery pack to the ESC also contributes to voltage spiking. The closer together the neg/pos wires are, and the shorter they are, the lower the voltage spikes.
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The enclosure is an eboosted landyachtz Evo 40 fibreglass enclosure.
“best” cable routing in terms of looks and splash/water resistence (budget is not so much an issue).
btw - you might be wondering about the hi5ber board, that is a different built.
The remote is a flipsky VX 2.
Thanks in advance for your help and sorry for not including the information in the original question!
Think ill stick with a bms or a lipo balance charger. out of curioisity when you made that 12s battery a while back but had two 6s balance cables popping out… I know how you wired the balance cables for cells 1-6. but for the balance cables on 7-12… did the ground connect to the battery ground aka cell 1?
Both packs are wired like a 6s lipo each.
This and than on the bms side setup like in this video from @Regular_Michael
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If the motors you’re using have a high Ld-Lq then I’d not use sensors, and epoxy male (with pins, not holes) Amass MR60 connectors through the enclosure pointed slightly down (while the skate is upside down on the bench) so when you flip it over and set it on the ground they’re pointed slightly skyward from level.
Like this:
I don’t know if this has a PWM output so you may not be able to use it with a DaVeGa.
Theoretically you could use a USplit to have both UART devices, but it’s recommended to not use it with remotes.
Does the Stormcore have that weird tiny DuPont plug like the unity/tenka? If so that has UART connections in it, you could make a cable for that.
hidden ppm? I love me some undocumented features.
Anyone know what bat+,vrx2 and vtx2 are for? presumably for measuring the battery voltage directly and a second serial port for ???
Batt+ i believe on the vx1 was for the voltage readout of your board battery, on your remote.
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Yeah I just saw that but no mention of it for the vx2
edit there is a diagram on the vx2 product page that shows the bat+ wire connected
Bat+ and telemetry won’t work if you use PWM (“PPM”).
I would expect this at least to work.
How about wiring the vx2 for PWM and then use the rest of the Cables alongside davega and usplit.