Anyone happen to know which 2200mAh cells Metroboard uses in their slim packs? Specifically discharge amps? They have mysterious paper insulation…
Okay, I was thinking about going with the bamboo flex deck from skateshred, but I wasn’t sure how it handles semi rough roads. I don’t think i’ll go past 25mph since I’m no pro. Do you know of any medium flex decks under $60 or $50?
For that price range skateshred is a good place to look. Otherwise I’d scope out a deck you like on muirskate that has some flex and then hunt for a used version on OfferUp or something
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Okay, I’ll look at that, thanks
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There’s also a ton of decks on amazon that are flexy and cheap, but they can be a bit sketchy for esk8 and can sometimes snap at the drop thru cut outs or mounting holes if put thru enough stress. I’d recommend adding a couple layers of fiberglass if you go that route
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Is that because a new cell would act differently than the rest? I’ve been searching the battery builders club thread and it seems like it’s not to uncommon to do. Also it’s an LTT/Xiaoxiang 12s BMS
I was specifically looking at this one
isn’t bamboo which I heard broke with longboard decks from this company
I haven’t tried any decks from skateshred myself so I’m unfamiliar with any issues with the bamboo. The flat head deck says it’s an 8 ply maple so that should be pretty stiff and good for stability. It does seem awfully flat tho, looks like maybe some mild rocker is there but not much to lock your feet into or help with lean.
That other deck you had linked looked like a loaded vanguard clone with a less aggressive camber. That one is a bit larger which can be a plus for fitting bigger batteries and maybe even fit some of the vanguard enclosures already available, but you’ll have to double check that. It will definitely be flexy tho looking at the layup they use.
It really depends on what you’re looking to do with the board. The flat head will be better for speed but possibly uncomfortable to ride after awhile. The other will be more comfortable to ride and more fun at lower speeds 
Edit:
I think a deck like this may be a better all around fit for an esk8 if you’re still undecided
Yes, conformal coating is an insulator more so than air.
I don’t plan on going past 25mph and i’ll most likely be using for cruising, carving yk and long rides. Will this deck be too close to the ground tho?
Go for comfort then for sure. Larger decks with some light flex will probably suit you best.
Check out some of the Landyachtz Switchblade 40 builds on here for a similar reference to the “bottlenose” deck on skateshred they seem pretty close in terms of drop height and shape
That deck is too much out of my price range, so I think i’ll go with the bottlenose one from skateshred since thats similar
Thanks for everyone being so helpful here. I’ve been using the esk8 calculator to get some good ideas for my first build.
I understand that a higher gear ratio (from the calculator) equals more torque and lower top speed. Is there a guide to knowing what gear ratio provides enough torque for different inclines? Am I approaching this wrong…?
Should I just be trying to make my max speed the number I want with gearing and not worry about the ratio?
There are some calculators that will do hill calculations, but usually if you have a decently powerful setup and no mega-steep hills, you should be fine just ignoring it and going for a simple speed calculation.
(This mostly applies to top speeds of ~25MPH and lower. Going for ludicrous speed will leave you with very little torque.)
Cool. Thanks.
I think I’ll either go with the Torqueboard 6380 or 6374, and I don’t want my top speed over 30 mph with either the TB110’s or Bergmeisters. I’m mostly just worried about not having enough torque with the bergmeisters, but not sure if that’s even something I should consider with these motors.
When using the calculator, what is the difference between max speed and loaded speed? Is loaded speed just what it can output with the average rider weight?
Yes, the loaded speed is calculated taking into account the drop in speed from having a rider on the board - usually ~10-15% difference from the unloaded speed.
My last board had dual 6355s and 6" pneumatic wheels geared for ~27MPH, and it didn’t even seem to notice that hills existed. Oodles of torque at 40 battery amps per side.
As long as you adjust your gearing appropriately, you won’t lose torque going from 110s to bergs - Wheel size only affects torque by changing the final drive ratio with the ground, so as long as you correct for that with the pulleys, it doesn’t matter if your wheels are 2" or 20".
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Ugh…feeling like a noob again…
Been trying to charge a pgroup from a Lacroix 10s. Using the charge chip inside a cheapo powerbank. Tried multiple different ones. Can’t get the freaking group over 4.08v. what’s happening? Possible causes? Possible free solutions?
You have a multimeter that can measure current. Have you tried doing so?
How about measuring the unload output voltage of the power banks?
@MysticalDork just did. Found out 2 of em don’t actually charge to 4.2 (gotta love Chinese made) the one in the first pic is from the cheapest of my powerbanks. I just saw the number jitter up for a second. And meter saw the voltage on the chip as variables between 4.05v and 4.21v so I’m hopeful again…after 5 fucking hours
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@MysticalDork I’m trying to bring it back for a guy getting into diy. He bought the pack from someone who upgraded their pack. But it came with no bms. Got him to order a smart 100a bms and this is what he sent me when he plugged everything up.
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