I am so with you on this one. I really wish they’d make a 14s VESC that’s cheaper than the ubox. a sort of middle ground.
Hi guys! I’ve been away for 6 months, and thought I depleted the battery on my longboard, which I did not, therefore it’s been slowly draining itself over time. Is there anything I should think of when I recharge the battery again? Or can I go back to normal usage straight away!
It depends on how low it discharged itself.
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I have a davega connected to it, I’ll check when I get home, and replay! Thx
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Hey, all. I ordered a Beast Box and it came with a power switch. I need some help as to where the leads go, please.
I assume that the Red goes to 5V and Black to negative (correct me if I’m wrong, please.) Then where does the white lead go?
And if I want to retain the battery level monitor, shall I leave it connected to the battery’s leads or solder them to the red and black leads of the switch?
The board currently uses a loop key, so I’m wondering whether these switches are as reliable. I see other ESCs that require an antispark cable for their switches. Does the VESC6 MkV still needs that?
Lots of questions so thank you very much. Merry Christmas.
(Ignore the NRF dongle that’s currently connected to the COMM port on the second photo)
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battery lead, after the loop key
trampa esc by default have hibernation function if u wire the switch correctly, u don’t even need to press the button to wake it, just spinning the wheels will do (assuming u have ur loop key plug in). the antispark connector should be on the battery leads, not the esc side.
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Thank you.
First thing I did was look into the official Trampa manual. I’m an esk8 noob and not very technical so it didn’t make sense to me. 
Having experience wiring guitars and guitar effects, red is always power and black is negative so I assume it’s the same here. So I guess that only leaves the white cable. The remaining open ports are ADC1, ADC2, TX, RX, and VCC. I would like to have functions just like yours.
About the antispark; Great, the battery and loopkey do have antispark XT90 connectors.
Its a 12s5p btw
If the pack is balanced that’s about 3.2V per group which is fine. Charge it up and party.
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Thanks, appreciate the feedback!
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is there a way to improve the braking for a board while stationary on an incline? currently all my boards have this problem if im stationary they will slowly slide back down the hill even if it’s a small hill.
hold a small amount of throttle, or just put your foot on the ground
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Vesc question.
So I’ve had my Tenka set to 110 battery amps and 112 motor amps total with 6374 motors.
Seems to be functioning correctly but:
How safe is this on Tenka?
Can I get more power only through adjusting throttle curve?
How much more torque is 70a/ motor vs the 56a/ motor? (~2ft.lbs)
Will more MOSFETs (Xenith or unity) be worth the upgrade?
The Tenka is probably not going to be able to do that much battery current.
Are you overheating it or experiencing throttling?
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Short answer yes, it comes with risks.
Long answer: 160A is the firmware abs limit of the V6, and 120A is the firmware motor limit. The VESC can only measure current so fast and you can run into an over current situation if your motor amp value is too close to the absolute max and get a spike. Plus as the motor heats up resistance changes and motor measurement accuracy drifts.
Even with external air cooling it will overheat pretty fast at those levels. With still air cooling, the V6 with a heatsink levels out at 40A over a 10 minute test.
On the 75/300 there are three temperature sensors for each bank of mosfets, and it’s interesting to see how different the temperatures are at high currents. Since the V6 only has one temperature sensor, there is a risk that one bank gets too hot too fast running at those high currents and runs over temp.
With all that being said, since throttle controls amps you could set it to 120A and just try not to hold full throttle for too long, like on a hill climb. I’m pretty sure I’ve read posts with people running those levels or higher on a V6… Brian maybe? I’m only at 100A and have seen an occasional overcurrent fault when it switches from sensored to sensorless, but may experiment with HFI and higher amps now that I’ve changed to a 63100… once the snow clears 
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Thank god i don’t have hills, huh. I’ve been running my stormcores at 100 motor amps and they don’t even get warm (maybe 30C tops in the winter, around 41 in warmer temps). It would be nice to get a tiny bit more initial torque 
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Edit: nevermind I’m an idiot, was looking at the HD60. Here is the Stormcore 60D
You could totally try more than 100A
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No over heating as far as I know though the enclosure can get plenty warm where the vesc is…
Nothing that I have noticed but I may not be completely in tune with all the nuances of my board.
I see…
Running real high phase currents works well with also having lower battery current settings. I’m running up to 165A phase currents (on Bigfoot) and IMHO keeping the battery currents much lower than the phase current, and cranking up the shit out of the phase currents, leads to much better feeling ride.
As long as you don’t fuck up and turn your battery currents up high, the crazy high phase currents will be so ephemeral that you shouldn’t have some of the issues you describe. Maybe if you’re towing a car up a hill at 4km/h you’ll cook your ESC but with a human-sized load applying that much phase current will quickly get your erpm out of the highest phase current zone, becoming sort of self-correcting.
It’s my honest opinion that a lot of settings I see have battery currents that are too high. Sure, if you want that punch when you’re already at high speeds that’s what you need, but then you make the mush zone near zero speed that makes your skate feel like it has Tiny Dick Syndrome.
Give me the highest phase currents all day long, that rip-your-shoes-off-when-the-light-turns-green feeling. And turn down that battery current to enable this.
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