If you mean how to connect a motor to the truck hanger, then that’s a motor mount. Places like Boardnamics sell those.
My question is: where do I get the spacers to mount the motors on the outside of the mount rather than on the inside (see image)
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The only time i’ve ever seen this was @rosco fucking around with one of his setups.
I absolutely do not think this is a good idea. Even if you can make it work, I think it will be destined to fail very quickly.
If you must pursue this, those spacers are called ‘hex standoffs’
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Having looked at the limiting factors, I believe my wheels are too large for this anyway.
But thanks for the advice!
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OHHHH
Yes I am going to second @glyphiks advice and say that’s not a good idea and recommend against trying it. At all.
But since I hate when I ask a question and people give an apple answer like “but why?” then I can answer the question. They are almost certainly sold as male-female threaded hex standoffs.
Hope you epoxy the threads.
Cheers
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What problem are you solving? Short hangers? I know a few of us love short hangers. (@b264, @glyphiks, @rafaelinmissouri come to mind)
You can put a huge motor on a short hanger if you use a single motor (rear heelside) instead of two motors.
FWIW, if you’re going to machine a custom part, you might as well make a custom motor mount that makes this setup possible:
Can also read further here:
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I mucked around with this but never ran it. I used long bolts and aluminium tube spacers.
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So I have managed to get my motors from 1/4" of the ground to 3/4" off the ground (6.35mm). I know that is pushing it but I cannot get any more room without ordering new mounts. Is this enough to… scrape… by?
Previously, with 1/4" I hit my mounts on every crack I went over. I should be okay now, but too large a rock could defiantly impact the motor.
Alternatively you could mount one motor regular and one reverse, or could run a dual diagonal setup(2 motors, one in the front, one in the back, opposite sides) @Andy089
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@Trampa i saw you said that the HD60T isn’t quite vesc 6 architecture. Can it handle 12s FOC well and HFI better than a unity?
Yes, 12S FOC and HFI and even Vedder Senorless Startup.
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I know 70% is the recommended efficiency parameter for eskates with pneumatics in the esk8 calc, but what about a device with a single 8in pneumatic tire and 2 small urethane wheels? There are 2 6374 motors, and a chain drive. 75-80%?
Pardon my ignorance…
Is Vedder Sensorless Startup the new name for what Trampa called Advanced Sensorless Startup (ASS)? Or is VSS a different feature?
I ask because your web site still mentions that the HD-60 is “ASS ready” but no mention of VSS is made.
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Yeah, seems calling a feature ass wasn’t a good idea after all.
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3/4" (19mm) should be okay for reasonably smooth streets.
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3/4 thumb width is 19mm
Probably just barely enough but undesirable
Okay for smooth streets like @MysticalDork said
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Also, why exactly? What is hitting what?
Griptape is a cool thing, because if you wrap it around a longboard wheel or a motor can, you can simply sand the clearance you need into the deck. Remove the roadside bushing — and boardside washer, if present, but not boardside bushing — while sanding.
If it’s not the deck that’s in the way, or if it’s a structural part of the deck you don’t want to sand on, then this may not help.
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I’ve actually done this on a couple decks, and scuffed grip tape looks pretty nice coating motors IMO
I would remove the griptape as it helps the motors cool.
But the can is not where most of the heat is radiated from though, a lot of it goes into the motor mount and truck hanger through the physical metal connection. The can is only thermally connected by convection.
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