Not worthwhile at all.
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I haven’t had the chance to really push the xenith yet so I do exactly know how much power I pull with settings that high. That is being fixed with the build I am currently getting together as I have the hardware now to push the upper range.
I’ve been on a bkb duo convert onto a Rayne Nemesis with a xenith v2. I ride fairly hard and always find myself of the end of my throttle. Break hard and accelerate even harder. I’m always hitting my 65-70a motor current limit, and that goes for my 60a battery limit as well.
I was hoping this could maybe prolong life at higher amps if pulled consistently but it seems the wires should not be main concern.
Are there repairs for unities/xenith? If I were to hop this or the anti spark switch failed, could this be fixable by someone with some SMD skills?
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It can be done if the only things that have failed are the components themselves.
A high-energy failure (read: goes “poof”) can cause damage to the traces on the circuit board as well, which are much harder to fix.
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Current ratings of wires for our application is a tricky thing. The higher the current, the more heat and most awg amp charts are based on running all day with jackets that melt at lower temps than silicone. You can run 2-3x the current for shorter periods of time.
Here is a great example of 100A on 12 awg
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k
im a pretty big noob at this
whats the difference between motor and battery amps
One is setting the max the battery can supply. The other is setting max the motors can receive. The ESC controls both. My very basic understanding is increasing motor max roughly equates to feeling more power at lower speeds and increasing battery max does the same at higher speeds.
Edit. Read this
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There have been a lot of explanations on this, but instead of getting all sharty on you, I’ll keep it simple.
Motor amps is directly related to torque/take off speed. The higher the number, the higher the take-off speed.
Battery amps is related to the total power that can be delivered. For additional reading, Trampa has a detailed version of this explanation
Example on a 12s system:
Battery amps set at = 50A
Motor amps set at = 100A
From a dead stop, you pull full throttle in “current control” mode and the duty cycle/RPMs will climb as the motor spins up and you accelerate.
10% duty cycle / 10% RPMs
Motor = 5v, 100A or 500w
Battery = 50v, 10A or 500w
25% duty cycle / 25% RPMs
Motor = 12.5v, 100A or 1250w
Battery = 50v, 25A or 1250w
50% duty cycle
Motor = 25v 100A or 2500w
Battery = 50v, 50A or 2500w
Up to this point, your acceleration has been impressive and linear. We’ve now hit the battery max of 50A. The system’s total power will no longer increase, but the motor will continue to spin up to full RPMs and top speed.
Voltage at the motor will continue to increase, but amps will decrease to match the battery’s 50v 50A (2500w) limit.
Basically this means your rate of acceleration will slow until you reach top speed as you are now capped at 2500w and running into more and more wind resistance.
75% duty cycle
Motor = 37.5v 66.6A = 2500w
Battery = 50v 50A = 2500w
100% duty cycle
Motor = 50v 50A = 2500w
Battery = 50v 50A = 2500w
If we set both battery and motor to 100A, our acceleration curve would be more linear from 0-top speed and we would reach a total of 5,000w… if our components were capable of this.
If we set battery amps to say 25A as b264 is suggesting and keep the motor at 100A, we limit the total system to 1250w. Since we use the most power during acceleration, and not to maintain a cruising speed, this should improve range at the cost of acceleration, though we won’t notice the difference until 25% duty cycle/25% RPMs.
Your battery amp setting is usually limited to the max amp discharge of the cells in your battery before they overheat.
Your motor amp setting is usually limited to the MFGs motor amp rating.
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Motor amps are directly proportional to how much torque the motor is putting out. Double the motor amps, double the torque (excluding losses), up until the motor starts to magnetically saturate.
The BLDC motors we use have very low electrical resistance internally, so when they’re at a standstill or low speed, it doesn’t take that much voltage across their wires to get to the maximum motor current limit. An example would be a phase resistance of 50 milliohm (0.05 ohms). Using V=I/R, for 100 amps, you only need 5 volts across the phase.
You may be asking “how do we not just blow through the motor current limits immediately, since we have 40+ volts on tap in the battery?”
Basically the ESC switches the battery voltage on and off thousands of times per second, and the motor basically only sees the average of all these switching operations.
In this way, the ESC’s switching, combined with the inductance of the motor winding, acts as a buck converter to drop the battery voltage down, while at the same time increasing the current to the motor.
This is how you can have 100A flowing through the motor, but only be pulling 12.5A (P=I*V, 100A * 5v = 500W, and 500W / 40v = 12.5A) from the battery.
As the motor begins to spin faster and faster, the coils and magnets in the motor begin to act like a generator. The coils generate a voltage across them, proportional to the speed, in opposition to the voltage coming from the ESC. This is called back-EMF.
This voltage opposes the drive voltage from the ESC, increasing the effective impedance of the motor from the ESC’s point of view. Instead of supplying 5v at 100A, the ESC now has to supply more voltage. As the motor voltage increases, so does the motor power, so the ESC has to draw more power from the battery to match.
Eventually the motor power exceeds the maximum the battery can supply (the ESC reaches the battery current limit), and to make the motor spin any faster, the motor current must drop.
Up until the battery current limit is reached, the amount of torque the motors are putting out (and the amount of acceleration you feel) is pretty much constant. Once the battery current limit is reached, the acceleration will drop off.
Changing the battery current limit will change the speed at which this drop off will happen.
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amazing explanation
thanks everyone
thats really helpful
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Hi Guys, Ive done a search and nothing has come back. Ive blown a fair few motors and instead of just having them sit about, I was going to rewind one and see if I can get it working again. Just wondering if the AWG of the motor windings are typically quite similar? I have two blown APS 6384S’s and two Flipsky 63100’s. I dont have a micrometer to measure the gauge, does anyone know what gauge of wire would be in the right ballpark? I dont mind using thicker wire for a lower KV and better current values so I can gear it back up.
Thanks!
Has anyone an idea what could cause a TS100 to not turn on all of the sudden? PSU is 24V.
I inspected the PCB but there where no sings of corrosion, short circuits or something heating up. Is there something obvious I missed?
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for info
i sold this ts100 to him
i tested before i sent and it turned on and heated fine
Not sure about the TS100 (I have a pinceil), but maybe you first have to connect it via lower powered USB, and then in the menu switch the power source setting to DC input 
Also maybe you have the polarity mixed up.
That isn’t necessary for the ts100
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Plugging USB in does nothing too, unfortunately. 
Also polarity is correct, itzs a barrel jack so yeah. I checked the PSU and its delivering 24V. I also tried to power it up using a 12V PSU, but nothing there too.
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plug into a pc, see if it reads the setting file inside, if it doesn’t, then its toast
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I tried a different cable, now the PC says USB device not recognized. Also the screen stays dark. I guess this means toast? @frame.b022
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That explains everything.
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please can you stop talking rubbish
i sold him a working product
have already told him if it doesnt work i will refund
it left my house working
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If you’ve checked the pcb, open it back up, put power to it, start @ the power port and trace down where it loses power. Could possibly just be a wire broke off in the port. Just spitballing
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