What I would do is the following:
Clean up the edges with a fine file, and wipe them down. Use black or clear silicon to screw the heatsink onto the enclosure, allowing the silicon to fill the gaps. Once it’s screwed down, you can wipe it clean, filling those extra holes.
They make hollow drill bits specifically for this sort of thing
Easy peasy, just go slow unless you want to enlarge your enclosure hole too
Harbor freight has a super cheap set if you’re in the US
10s battery
both charge port and main leads measure 23v
tried charging and wont accept
tried charging at 0.5amps @35v and still wont charge at all
any ideas?
Willing to bet your bms is in low voltage protection. 23v in a 10s is 2.3v per group.
I just got my Stormcore 60D+ and it’s using… 12awg phase leads?!? For one the bullet connectors are a size smaller than that of my TB DD, but isn’t 12awg rated at like 40 amps max?
if u need to push more amps cont. solder on some thicker wires
12AWG phase leads is fine.
Measure every P group without accidentally shorting anything
Well, there are a lot of factors. If it’s nice high strand silicon sleeved 12 awg it should have no problem doing 60amp cont. Unless you’re gunning high speed for many miles straight, motors wont ever pull 60 amp cont. You may hit peaks much higher than 60 but 12awg can handle TB DD perfectly
well just found out its supposed to be 12s (thought guy said 10s)
12s @23v seems way to low
any chance of recovery?
This is where you should have started before trying to charge it.
Sure, there’s a chance. Is it wise? Probably not.
i plugged in my charger (adjustable volts and amps) and it said that no current was going in (was just confirming it would charge, left it for 5 seconds in and then took it out)
battery is enclosed so getting to the p groups is a pain
will let him know
You only need to get to the balance plug for the bms for an indication of what might be going on.
Either way, the pack is toast and in need of serious repair, so opening it up is gonna need to happen unless you plan on disposing of the whole thing.
will let him know
just calculating the chances of it being worth it to open and try to fix
Anyone got an idea what could be causing this humming sound?
This pint was repaired recently. The original burned motor connector was replaced with a mt60 phase wire connector and higo hallsensor connector. Also got a P42A pack now.
Worked fine for ~30km and then this sound appeared.
I think it sounds like some sort of resonance. The owner stripped half of the fender threads in the rails and maybe the fender resonates at certain motor rpm’s?
Definitely sounds like that, try putting a dot of butyl tape between the fender and body right where it’s loose.
I agree with Brian - Sounds like a mechanical vibration issue, not anything electrical.
Dumb question but what are those rubbery doo-daas called that you use to help with cable entry into enclosure boxes? I’ve used sealants in the past but never get it looking tidy so wanted to look at some options but google not so good when you don’t know what they are called 
They’re typically called cable glands
perfect, thankyou, looks like PG11 is the right size for 10awg