the others all seem fine
dont see the point in screwing them up if they are looking good
must have been a freak thing with this motor
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Have you actually checked all of the other phase wire terminations though? Its a metric ton of seemingly unnecessary work but the peace of mind would probably be enough for me to consider it.
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i gave them a quick glance but will give a proper look to see if any others have an issue.
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@Battery_Mooch are you still investigating LiPo pouches? I was trying to look at your ratings table, but it’s “down for updating”
Sorry, no. I haven’t had more than a couple of requests in years.
If there were a bunch of people here though who wanted certain packs tested I could do that. I would need two of each sent to me in NYC.
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At the risk of looking like an idiot, would you take a look at the battery chemistry info i added to this thread:
Even better if you have a moment to add/edit - it’s a wiki thread, so you can correct to your heart’s content
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someone say lipos?
You will learn the ways eventually. I started out using 10AWG for everything. Because bigger is better, right? Things aren’t always how they seem.
it’s better imho to have properly sized wire that’s also small enough where it can fuse out of the circuit if there is a major problem, plus it’s a lot more flexible and easier to get solid, hot solder joints, lighter, and cheaper.
i use 12/14awg wire for mains, small wires, idk, maybe 24-28? i don’t remember
I’ll try. I get up to several requests a day to review or write something so it can be tough to find the time when mixed in with everything else (testing, 150-200 questions a day, day job, research, and a pathetic attempt at life in general).
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28AWG is getting down to the size where I’d be worried about physical vibration breaking the wires near the ends. I typically don’t go under 24AWG regardless of how low the current is.
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No rush, no worries
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Anyone have suggestions for trucks for an analog Bustin Sportster? I’m thinking maybe TKP
Downhill or freeride? Do you ever want to be able to covert it to electric? Even consider it? Or have parts be reusable for electrics? What’s your budget?
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- Downhill or freeride?
freeride
- Do you ever want to be able to covert it to electric?
it’s not a priority
- Even consider it?
absolutely
- Or have parts be reusable for electrics?
no spare electronics
- What’s your budget?
$50-150
I personally would check out the Boardnamics 145 hangers and try to find some Caliber / Randal / Paris baseplates somewhere.
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I’m partial to Paris V3s, 180mm to rail match the board. I’m not sure TKPs are a great choice for that deck or freeride, since the wheelbase is so long and it’s dropped, so you’ll need larger wheels if you go TKP in order to not scrape. Throw on some 69mm snakes and it’s a potent combo.
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I’ve got some 85mm cags on order. Agreed on the 180mm - i think the 145 hangers will be too skinny
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any chain drive pro here that knows where I can find a sprocket that’ll fit 100mm wheels?
The 145 hangers have extra long axles, so they can also be set up in a wider configuration. They’re very flexible. You can also run them as a 180 or 185 probably even. The 145mm is a minimum.
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