there’s a number next to what I want in the PCB, but not sure what part it is. May not be salvageable. There is copper showing on PCB
I wish the DV6 could have USB C on it. Oh well, here’s hoping for maker X to make an interesting esc that has it.
Any recommendations on kegel wheels? maybe airless rubber?
I’m interested in trying something beside the TB110
have you seen these yet? I’ve been wanting to pick some up but i already have all the wheels i need 
2 Likes
Anyone good with spray paint? Mine scratches off easily by fingernail. I applied adhesion promoter then about 4 coats.
Do you add primer for a finisher? You need a coat of it.
1 Like
I added some clear topcoat. Scratched a bit. Add another colour to fix it. Initially I had 3 coats of colour. Now scratched again.
You need something like Kilz primer or krom clear and allow it to cure for 24 hours.
I recommend doing a 48 hour (two coats) for a much stronger protection.
1 Like
Do I just put that on top and it will be good? The kilz primer seems easiest for me to get in Canada but it comes in a bucket? Will this work or could it be I didn’t clean the surface of the metal enough? Or if that was the case I would see peeling rather than it coming off from scratching?
1 Like
Cleaning the metal should be the first thing to do to make sure your paint doesn’t get easily peeled off or removed with something light. So you got this correct.
The primer is mainly to cover the paint in a clear coat to protect it from being scratched. Think of it as a shield. It takes 24 hours to fully maximize it’s value. But I recommend a double coat so your paint can last very long.
2 Likes
So from here the are parts that are scratched off, should I apply my red spray paint just at those spots or coat the whole thing before applying this. There seems to be variation in the kilz primer. Which one do I get and does it come in a bucket or spray can?
For that, I would spray it, and see how long it takes to cure. For example, the spray can takes about 2 hours to cure properly.
As for the kilz primer, make sure it’s clear. It can be either a can or the bucket itself. Make sure it says interior/exterior. For obvious reasons 
I see there are a lot so find one that works as a seal. The adhesion looks correct.
Something like this:
Edit: make sure it says “sealer”
1 Like
Do you happen to know the difference between kilz 2 and 3 and both don’t specify that they are clear but it seems as if they are? Do I apply them with any wide paintbrush or it must be something specific?
Think of it as “upgraded product”. Different formula and time, less smell, how it works, etc. But if you’re adding it to your Esk8, you don’t need a wide brush. A simple medium sized one will do wonders. Just make sure you don’t let it go into the motor can opening and you’re set.
If you see one that says clear sealer like what I sent, that’s the one you need.
Btw, kilz 2 is garbage.
1 Like
I can’t find kilz clear anywhere in Canada or any other clear primers. There are only “tintable” and white ones. kilz clear is so easily right there at the US home depot but not for me 
what does tintable mean and can I use that?
Tintable means to deepen or darken the color added on top of it. For example, a light green will look more greenish. You can use it, but you need to re-add red.
If you can’t find clear primer, try krom clear. Or see if there’s a red colored seal primer. It sucks you can’t find one there.
1 Like
I can’t find that either. I can’t easily find people using clear primer as a topcoat instead of just underneath as a primer. Is there anything else I can use or I’m doomed to watch my paint get scratched and weathered away
Clear coat type spray? Or everbrite protective coating? These could be helpful. You can try searching “good clear topcoat protection for paint sprayed metal” and see your results as well. There should be some product you can find.
I live in the US so these are easy to find on my end.
1 Like