On 8" i have about 17-20Wh/km
on 100mm hubs i have 7-9.5Wh/km
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Is the capacity used of the battery (in mAh) showed on vesc tool is accurate or it just depends on what you put in the battery info ?
To know if I can trust the number to tell me the capacity left in my battery ?
any suggestions on that ESC my guy?
I have seen lots of wiring diagrams and understand the basics of wiring in that regard. What I haven’t seen, not due to lack of trying, is those wiring diagrams in real life with connectors.
For example, what does the single polarity from battery negative look like from the battery to the motors with all the connections pictured? Assuming this setup would be bypassing the BMS?
For some reason I can’t picture the different splices for the charging port and then back to the esc… as in the total package with all the different splices and the connectors being used.
Here’s a slightly out of date wiring plan, with some of the connectors. BMS bypassed.
Not pictured: motor connectors, charge port barrel connectors
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The fuse is probably better to be on the charge port, and not separated by a connector.
How and where do you guys get your wh/km? I’m guessing it’s not in the vesc tool app. I’m trying to figure out the calculations of my setup.
Kk dude. Soldering is the singular place on this forum to not have an ego and get butthurt. One bad joint and your house is on fire or you’re fucking street faced in 0.1 seconds. Somebody on here has done the whole house fire, and I got street faced buying a board when I needed a quick spare by a solder joint similar to the one you posted by a dude who couldn’t send pics of soldering b/c the enclosure was siliconed shut (shittily too lol) but promised all the soldering was perfect. None of it was even 25% of the way to perfect, it was all literal dogshit.
Sorry about the shitty lighting and the fact I have no good way to take video. This was all done w/Hobbyking 60/40 which isn’t amazing to work with.
First two vice pics are heating from underneath the cusp externally. Weren’t perfect on the very top aesthetically so I scrapped and did w/heat on top of wire.
Sheen on the rest of the pics is dulled because I used a brass brush + 99 isopropyl to remove all flux residue, also cleaned up the 12awg residue from last night for a slightly better view.
10awg is actually the exact diameter of wire to be completely flush w/the bullet. As seen, there is the slightest spillover from the bottom (tinned cusp) to the sides to ensure things were heated all the way through.
Overkill on pics but too hard to tell which focused best, google camera app stopped working a few phone updated ago and stuck w/stock shit app
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K dude. You’re fucking stupid lol.
Also, your XT-60’s are the color of Amazon/eBay/AliExpress counterfeits, have fun with that
What’s wrong with that exactly? Almost everyone gets theirs from those sites. But hey, thanks for playing the solder game. Hope you had fun.
I would also recommend genuine Amass brand connectors, but I think we should talk about things and not people. Nobody here building an esk8 is stupid. Even getting that far requires a nonzero amount of brains.
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Agreed. These are genuine since it comes from amass (as far as it says).
You can get genuine AMASS XT-60’s from either of the sites. I’m simply saying you did not order from the right seller apparently and got counterfeit ones.
Counterfeit ones melt and catch fire if used anywhere near an XT-60’s actual specs for any amount of time a normal one could handle because of a variety of poorer qualities in the polymer and bullet connector metal. As should be obvious.
Glad you’re butthurt as fuck about you shoddy soldering job, it really shows. That or your eyesight is absolutely terrible.
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?? I didn’t even show the front? Besides, those parts came from a genuine seller. But okay, go off.
I don’t care if you burn your house down or catch your Esk8 on fire. I simply care about others who may look at your picture and think that’s what a good joint looks like and ends up burning their house down because of it.
Get over yourself.
The fake ones do suck. This is definitely a thing.
I mean they’re not completely terrible, they can be used with care under lower currents and with additional fastening so they don’t vibrate apart, but in general they’re nowhere near as good as the Amass brand ones despite looking extremely similar.
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I know. That’s basic knowledge. That’s why I get mine and make sure they are genuine.
Edit: I don’t know why you or that self egotistical person thinks it’s not.
I literally said color. Nothing to do with the bullets lmao.
The video is regards to your question of “what does it matter if they’re counterfeit”
Why are you continuing to be a dick when you’re wrong.