I have:
12s3p
6354
190kv
16/36 gearing (2.250)
Maker-x dv4
Amps:
Motor 55 (110 total)/ -50 (-100)
Battery 25 (50)/ -15 (-30)
Battery is limited because 3p and too much punch limits my range. Raising the total by 6 amps reduces capacity by 700mAh out of 9000.
Brakes are weeaaaak at speed 
need 4p before i do manage to kill myself in traffic
With 83mm wheels the throttle is unmanageable. Way too much for any circumstance. If i was any lighter than 80kg i would burnout.
With 100mm the throttle is just enough to surprise any car waiting behind me at a stop light and reach 40-50km/hr rather fast.
You need to mirror most jst plugs before connecting them buut… it works. I changed nothing inside my enclosure in 700km
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centre post
The only dumd question is the unasked one.
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I’ve never seen any esk8 equipment wired for negative center, but it could happen.
Put a fuse on your charge port, always
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Littelfuse/0997075WXN?qs=bpnLQM2ZShwcHyOYzoHBAA%3D%3D
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Better low speed braking, better heat capacity/dissipation potential, better power potential with bigger batteries.
I see some metr logs with 70/80km/hr around here and i can’t wrap my head around that honestly.
Also, moar flex potential, duuh
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i had an old charger that had a negative center pole but it wasn’t for esk8
I would try to get a fiberglass enclosure if possible. ABS is kinda shitty and breaks really easily, especially with a lot of cells inside.
Check out @eBoosted @BigBen @glyphiks and
Or you could get an ABS enclosure, fit it, then use it for a fiberglass mold. Not sure if anyone has done that. Anyone have any reason that wouldn’t work?
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5.7cm that will be pretty fat
do you have enough clearance for that
also the enclosure will be very wide since your batteries are pretty wide
i also have to know the concave could you try and measure it?
Same, why did my post get flagged then?
I don’t know; I didn’t flag any posts
You should get a message if the post was flagged; you can ask in there
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Ah cool, thanks for this!
The esc they’ve got is the SV4 not dv4 as you have. If i wanted to improve the breaking would getting a vesc6 help? The battery config really depend on whowmuch my enclosure will fit. Im thinking of a double stack, in which case it would be 12s4p…but that may be optimistic and its likley ill go for 3p like you
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I put a spot for taping in a filter and using carbon filter made for soldering fan in there for now it’s not going to stop water from flowing in but I figured I can just swap back to the sealed case for winter time and just try to avoid deep puddles in the summer and have the filter in there in case I have to deal with a little rain.
Also I use silicone conformal coating on the pcbs in there for the most part so a little splash shouldn’t cause any harm even if it did get inside.
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Is this the nail polish like stuff that kind of waterproofs your electronics?
Yup @b264 has some write ups about it but is basically just clear coat that adds layer of rubber over all the electronics I left the mosfets mostly bare of it but basically paint it on like nail polish let dry for like 20min then give a second or third coat, can check where it got with a UV light to make sure all the contacts or metal parts that could rust or short get covered.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008O9YIV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gkt7EbD0XH18S
Some stuff you can solder through other stuff varies in different ways.
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If using that stuff too just do it in a well ventilated area or outside the fumes seem pretty nasty on the plus side it dries pretty fast.
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I actually now prefer the MG Chemicals #419D for electronics and MG Chemicals #4223 for big wires and connectors
and MG Chemicals #4228 for motors unless they’re getting the better battle-hardening treatment
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What does happen if there’s splash water in the motor and what does happen if there’s much water inside?
I had splash water inside, and it worked flawlessly, and spit the water out when driving like a shaking dog…
Too much water results in shorts between the coils?
Edit: Google says the water isnt a problem for electric stuff that happens inside the motor, but the bearing will suffer corrosion if you don’t relubricate it.
Is that true?
Hi everyone, this is my first post!
I m making plans for my first board, should i post here or open a thread?
I m a mechanical designer with a 3d printer and access to laser cut, I m also lucky to have friendly collegues that could help on making a li-on battery
My plan is to start with a single motor belt build, with a 3d printed enclosure on a cheap longboard i already have, then upgrade to dual motor on a homemade deck if i like the hobby and want to spend more.
I wanted to stay on the cheap side so at first i landed on Flipsky website, but after reading many horror stories i m not sure, i may be more inclined to buy motor and esc from Maytech.
I was thinking to go 6374, FSESC 6.6 or MTSUPERFOC6.8 , 12s2p, VX1 remote, homemade laser-cut motor mount.
Any advice?
Ps:I already have a full helmet and pads 
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This is the place for questions, but we have another thread dedicated to introducing yourself and sharing your plans:
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