Sounds mostly good to me. The TB vescs are fine just 4.x hardware so the mosfets can’t deal with quite as much current, but you are saving a tiny amount on space using a 2 in 1 and greatly increasing the chance of needing to replace the 2 in 1 since 1 side fails you replace the whole thing. Depending on how far along TB/Dexter and crew are on the 6.x version of their hardware I might hold out at this point, but would ask them how long the wait is for production units.
Regarding flex I would account for some flex even with a stiffer deck you want it to give some to eat the vibrations from wheels and the road. For wheels the TB AT I have and can say are pretty good but you’ll want to balance the wheels if running at any sort of speed (above 15mph you’ll feel heavy vibrations if wheels aren’t balanced). Enclosure needs to account for some flex at least and battery just needs room to move if/when the deck is flexing a bit.
That is the mini. It is the smallest esc you can probably find and the ratings follow suit.
There’s also a mini plus rated for 50A continuous and the sv6 for 100A.
Keep in mind those are battery amps by the way.
Motor amps are limited by mostly mosfets rating and the heatsink they sit on, but should be 1:1 with battery amps
Thanks. For a thane street build, which would you recommend I go for? I’ll be running dual 6374 170kv (the new Flipsky motors) and will have a 12s3p battery. I’d consider the Vesc 4 version if it was adequate. Uphill torque and stopping control are the most important things for me, and im not too heavy heavy either (70kg)
Helpful advice, I agree independent ESC’s would make the system more maintainable, I’ll check with Dexter about the latest hardware. Do you have a recommendation on how to balance wheels?
I used some small wheel weights I found on amazon and shaved them in half with a dremel to add the weights inside the plastic hub of the at wheels, basically need them opposite of the valve used to fill the wheels to balance that out.
After nearly completing my first build, I ask myself why one would need bigger motors than dual 6355 for a streetboard (non pneumatic/not off-road).
I “only” have a 10S3P 30Q which I configured to “only” 50A output, and I still don’t dare full throttle, especially from 0-30kmh.
What would be the advantage of dual 6374 or 6380 be then, if there is any (and thus a bigger P battery to) ? More torque? This thing goes >30kmh any road as steep as it gets where I live. Speed? Okay… I only hit 45kmh, but thats arguibly enough for regular joes
Probably not for you and probably not for me, but when hill climbing and or more weight you can and probably will overload things temp wise if riding for long enough in hot enough weather. That said for quick runs or just casual slow cruising on urethane you’d be hard pressed to stress anything out.
So you would just get bigger motors, so that they don’t overheat as much?
Yeah i’m only 65kg, lucky me
Without a Bluetooth module, is there any way to collect and read data from the VESC?
Don’t know when my firefly nano is finally here and am curios about things like estimated range (avg wh/km) top speed avg speed etc
Yah and can just get more torque without pushing things to limits or risking smoking things but yah similar weight class here and cruising around Chicagoland area it’s pretty much all flat land so even on single drive I only stress it out with the pneumatic setup on hot days (air vents in enclosure for vesc helped a lot stays safely under 70C now)
I heard these are very effective! I’ll also add a small aluminum heatsink on the MOSFETS, sadly I don’t know how warm my dual FSESCs 4.12 get…
So far they run fine without any issues for like 100km… will see about the next month’s…
How did you manage to keep it water resistant?
I have:
12s3p
6354
190kv
16/36 gearing (2.250)
Maker-x dv4
Amps:
Motor 55 (110 total)/ -50 (-100)
Battery 25 (50)/ -15 (-30)
Battery is limited because 3p and too much punch limits my range. Raising the total by 6 amps reduces capacity by 700mAh out of 9000.
Brakes are weeaaaak at speed need 4p before i do manage to kill myself in traffic
With 83mm wheels the throttle is unmanageable. Way too much for any circumstance. If i was any lighter than 80kg i would burnout.
With 100mm the throttle is just enough to surprise any car waiting behind me at a stop light and reach 40-50km/hr rather fast.
You need to mirror most jst plugs before connecting them buut… it works. I changed nothing inside my enclosure in 700km
Better low speed braking, better heat capacity/dissipation potential, better power potential with bigger batteries.
I see some metr logs with 70/80km/hr around here and i can’t wrap my head around that honestly.
Also, moar flex potential, duuh
Or you could get an ABS enclosure, fit it, then use it for a fiberglass mold. Not sure if anyone has done that. Anyone have any reason that wouldn’t work?
need 4p before i do manage to kill myself in traffic