Sorry I don’t have anything super useful to contribute but I just wanted to say I love those pictures, janky DIY engineering at its finest 
I can do some drawings when I get home to approximate the clearance you’d get from BN hangers, maybe that’ll help
All of them hurt my soul apart from the option of getting the correct truck to fit it.
220, 221…whatever it takes.
I just bought this board and I would like to have the option to put AT-Wheels on it.
What do I need to buy to accomplish that?
Wheels of course. Which ones are most bang for the buck?
I will need longer belts right?
Other Pulleys?
Riser pads?
You are likely going to need a whole new drivetrain.
You can reuse:
To chime in on this, this is 100% correct. Your current trucks are 218mm, ideally you want something more than 200mm something similar to a boardnamics, as they offer a 260mm wide version. You’ll need pulleys, a different belt length (which you can calculate at the end), and some wheels! (Duh🤣)
Many people have this exact board with pneumatic, mostly you’ll use 6" tires as to keep the sporty feel. Bigger than that and you’ll lose stability with that deck.
For 6" you have not too many options, one being Haggy Bergmeisters, which are unobtainable for the moment because he was moving to Europe and closed down his store. There are some Janux hubs but are also unobtainable (he went out if business), and cheap AliExpress ones which I don’t recommend.
@Bavioze also was making prototypes that look amazing, maybe he has a spare set?
Note that all these hubs fit 2.8" tires.
This is a very specific categorie, not every tire will fit.
Refer to this thread for tire and hub sizes.
You should do a bit of searching on the forum using the search tool. Once you make up your mind maybe create a WTB thread, as maybe someone is selling what you want!
Hope this answers the question.
Remember use the calculator to help determine what wheel pulley you want as this determines the speed/torque!
But like, what actually happens when you try accelerating when it’s already past the max? Would it slow the motor down to the specified max eRPM, or would it do nothing? Assume it’s well under the max limit for the ESC, but above the motor max for the voltage.
Maybe do that and put a layer of fiberglass on the bottom of the whole deck to strengthen it.
Infinityhubs are 3.75" not 2.8"
For potential speed wobbles at higher speeds for a light person (70kg)what would people advise, Matrix 2’s or Trampa trucks with barrells? (for a full off-road build).
Thanks, for now I will got with the deck extension option, the BN270 would need big 30-40mm riser as well if I’m estimating it correctly. The extension feel solid even now with the 3D print, once it’s 5mm metal there, I’m sure it will hold well. I’m more concerned about the deck, but if it cracks, this is cheap deck anyway.
In this scenario Flipsky 15.2 DPK truck would fit the best. I’m just not big fan of DPK and also it costs almost as much as Boardnamics hangers. But for now I will try to make the deck extension just for the science so I can share my experience 
Good tip, didn’t think about this. I may do that since I’m getting fiberglass for the enclosure anyway.
I see that we are having similar upgrade here. TB218 trucks. Abec 107s to AT wheels.
Have you decided what wheels or wheel size do you want?
TB218 trucks can fit mountainboard wheels (just see my reply above) you just need 638 bearings, but you will run into the same problems like me. I think that good option to consider for hubs are Trampa Superstars with offset spacer. However you will need different motor mounts for sure.
good save, i got confused since Luuk and nacho were working together
fixed now 
If you’re referring to the hobbywing, it would probably turn off the remote. I’m not 100% though since, as given, I’ve never went over the limit of the hobbywing esc. All I know is that for a regular programmable esc, it will turn off the remote until you get to a slower ERPM.
The motor max rpm would not matter since the hobbywing has a limited RPM cycle and won’t go above it (I’ve seen this in their data sheet). The main focus apparently is how hot the esc gets. This is all I can tell you. I’m very limited when it comes to hobbywing escs.
I was referring to regular VESC, the Hobbywing behavior is already known, but since VESC usually uses current control, I’m not sure what it does.
Ah. The remote would turn off in the vesc to compensate the ERPM before allowing the remote to work again. This is where you will lose braking/speeding.
That doesn’t seem to be the case however? I have full brakes at least when my speed goes over the expected limit of the motor (~67k eRPM), since it’s still well under the max eRPM limit of the VESC itself (150k).
This explains itself.
It doesn’t explain what would happen if you accelerate when you’re over though. All I know is it wouldn’t shut off, but idk if it slows down or not when you accelerate, or if other weird things happen.
Your motors will just run hotter. It doesn’t really affect the vesc, save for the MOFSET heating up. Your motors ERPM doesn’t affect the vesc until it goes over the 150k.
But how does it even run? I’m not too familiar with how phases work, but wouldn’t it then mean the phases are switching faster than 100% duty cycle to maintain that speed? There’s no field weakening going on, so how would it even work?
