Would this work if you attached a resistor across the gap first “precharging” the other side? Like, if that’s the case, you could have a separate switch that first connected the resistor, and then one would plug the blade fuse in. Would that work? I don’t see why not.
The resistor side of the circuit would only need a small switch, yes?
Yes, you can have a “Standby” switch and a “Power” switch. Like the old tube amplifiers. The power switch should just short out the resistor.
The problem with that is it’s able to be operated incorrectly. If you leave “Power” on while you turn on “Standby” you might have a switch innards melting session.
If you don’t use the sensor plug, you can basically submerge them and they’ll still operate.
It will drastically reduce bearing lifetime though, especially if the water has salts in it. Motor bearings are replaceable though in all but one kind of motor I have dealt with.
The sensors are a completely different story and I just recommend not using them unless you absolutely have to. I wouldn’t get them wet unless you personally seal them up inside the motor. SOME motors have this already done, like the new Bioboards motors, but not very many.
“Battle hardened” can mean a thousand things, is the new essential marketing bullet point, and not all battle hardening will waterproof the sensor assembly. Even if so, there are various levels of protection that can be had.
someone recommended a more roomy version of the Peli Case 1200 on here some time ago and I thought id bookmarked the page, but alas I didnt ( searched this thred too…perhaps it was another one). In any case, is anyone familar witht the Peli Case 1200 that’s called like ‘Pel Case 1200 XR’, or someting, a special version of the original where the inside is slightly more spacious (we’re talking 1 or 2cm)… ?
I wouldn’t use soft risers. I don’t think that’s too much under the right circumstances but it depends on the circumstances. I have almost that much on Bigfoot.