Your battery will last longer if you set battery max lower than 20A, maybe like 16A but that’s going to be kinda skeet. I would not push the cells past 20A though. 23A is too much.
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Ah alright I’ll change that. Tysm
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What are the dangers of using a 100 amp blade fuse as a loop key? If any? high voltage spikes?
It’s not antispark.
Going to be a big bang and a tiny bit of molten metal flying on each turn-on cycle. Eventually, the blades are gone.
Other than that, it’d “work”.
Would there be no way to incorporate a resistor into the loop to absorb it? I wonder.
Why does it initially draw so much current?
The Amass XT90S we use for loopkeys has a 5.6Ω resistor inside.
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Ahhh.
I just feel like turning on our boards leaves a lot to be desired. There’s like no low profile 100 amp switches in existence. Mostly, but not entirely because of physics. Solenoids are enormous, relays as well, loop keys are kind of crude.
Where’s all the high current self healing, low profile mercury switches? Innovation in switching things on and off will never end.
Here’s the most low profile, 100 amp switch I know of:
It’s like 3 1/2 inches tall.
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ROHS would like to know your location
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I didn’t know Europe essentially banned mercury in almost all products, gosh. I imagine America will follow suit at some time.
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Would this work if you attached a resistor across the gap first “precharging” the other side? Like, if that’s the case, you could have a separate switch that first connected the resistor, and then one would plug the blade fuse in. Would that work? I don’t see why not.
The resistor side of the circuit would only need a small switch, yes?
Yes, you can have a “Standby” switch and a “Power” switch. Like the old tube amplifiers. The power switch should just short out the resistor.
The problem with that is it’s able to be operated incorrectly. If you leave “Power” on while you turn on “Standby” you might have a switch innards melting session.
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Thanks, that’s great. I just found some really nice maxi fuse holders that I really want to try using. The blade fuses kind of remind me of a car key.
Just use a car key for the standby switch. 
It’ll work until/unless it doesn’t.
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How water resistant are motors?
If you don’t use the sensor plug, you can basically submerge them and they’ll still operate.
It will drastically reduce bearing lifetime though, especially if the water has salts in it. Motor bearings are replaceable though in all but one kind of motor I have dealt with.
The sensors are a completely different story and I just recommend not using them unless you absolutely have to. I wouldn’t get them wet unless you personally seal them up inside the motor. SOME motors have this already done, like the new Bioboards motors, but not very many.
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No motors in the rain then 
Battle hardened motors might be the better option.
“Battle hardened” can mean a thousand things, is the new essential marketing bullet point, and not all battle hardening will waterproof the sensor assembly. Even if so, there are various levels of protection that can be had.
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Good point.
someone recommended a more roomy version of the Peli Case 1200 on here some time ago and I thought id bookmarked the page, but alas I didnt ( searched this thred too…perhaps it was another one). In any case, is anyone familar witht the Peli Case 1200 that’s called like ‘Pel Case 1200 XR’, or someting, a special version of the original where the inside is slightly more spacious (we’re talking 1 or 2cm)… ?