Is “RT APP” turned on, on the right side?
Don’t know. I’ll look and report back. EDIT: It wasn’t but I turned it on and tried and got nothing still. For some reason all the values jump to 1.19 before I move the throttle??
Also, does this sound normal:
I’m still not 100% if this motor stuffed my Mini FOC plus ESC or if it’s fine. Worried about plugging it in to my DV6 to test in case it stuffs that ESC.
At the worst that sounds like a tiny bit of debris rubbing between the can and the stator. Nothing that would have a chance to damage the ESC like a shorted winding would.
Honestly it sounds fine, or at least good enough that I probably wouldn’t bother with a teardown and inspection.
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Alright. Here goes 
. Will go check now. May be that the Maker X Go-FOC mini was at fault all along. We’ll soon see.
found it! it was hard to find.
i added it to the schematics thread
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I found the top part but didn’t bother sending it as it only had the one damper hole. Guess that would’ve been alright 
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nah i needed the second one too. i fot an trampa holypro f3d. file from grabcad and sketched it from scratch to get the second bushing hole lol
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Greetings everyone - it’s been a long time.
I built my first DIY almost 5 yrs ago with the help of you folks on the previous forum (I can’t include links I guess becuase it is my first post here but if you search electric-skateboard.builders for ballistic-chicken-sk3-6354-260kv-x-car-beast you will find my old build post)
and I am proud to say that, amateurish as it was…it lives to this day! Had an old friend come to visit a month ago and his 16 yr old son spent the better part of the weekend cruising around our neighborhood on it.
I am back to ask about a (v)ESC. I’ve been catching up on the drama of the preceding years over the last few days, and oh boy, never a dull moment. the big scandal last time I was around was the infamous Alextech…and I was sorry to see the latest developments surrounding the Unity.
I have a “new” upgrade-build I am working on. I got one of those cheapy 8" pnumie “L-faster/SYL-08/H2C” MTBs a while ago with the full intention of using it until something inevitably began to fail and then using it as an upgrade platform. This is NOT recommended for most MTB fans at all, and “Yes” I did read the whole fascinating saga at electric-skateboard.builders about the guy who bought one of these and went through every detail. That guy was serious about building a “budget trampa” - I am not. His final result is waaaayyyyy over-spec’d for my needs (but he did an amazing job).
Nonetheless, I was undeterred and the reason is because of my very specific and “low-demand” use case. The reason I got it in the first place was because I prefer to ride on sidewalks, and with urethan wheels it is just too harsh, even with wheels in excess of 90mm. I was relegated to well-paved streets and bike paths only if I wanted to ride at all.
Firstly, I was old when I built my first one, I am even older now. I really have no business even standing still on one of these ridiculous things. Secondly I suffered a traumatic (but esk8-unrelated) injury a couple of years ago that saw me with a shattered calcaneus (the supposedly unbreakable bone that makes up your heel). Some surgeries and screws and such, and I get around OK now.
What this all means is that I require just the bare minimum in terms of performance (just from a safety standpoint).
- 15mph tops is plenty of speed, I typically cruise around 12. It can have more, but I’ll never use it.
- There are no hills to speak of anywhere near me (Southern Florida)
- The most “off-roading” I ever do is sidewalk and occasionally the adjacent flat grass (when passing, or cutting a corner prior to a turn)
- I don’t care how loud it is
The reason I an upgrading now is because I have (what all empirical evidence suggests) a buggy motor. I suspect the internal position sensors. There are no external sensor wires as stock, but one motor will just quit randomly after I get moving. The other motor can keep me going, but there is a tangible loss of torque. If I come to a complete stop and take off again - it works - always- but for a random duration of time (maybe the rest of the ride, maybe 10 seconds). I first suspected the cheap single-unit ESC so to test I swapped motor wires (making sure there were no connection issues before or after the swap - connections were tight, it initially really felt like a power delivery problem but I have no evidence for that after inspection) to see if the problem would follow to the other motor or not and what do you know, different ESC channel, same problem on the same motor. I’ve been able to reproduce a few times with the cover off and tried pulling on and manipulating the power wires to make sure it was absolutely not a phase wire connection issue and it is not. So, despite being highly dubious of the ESC and expecting it to the be the problem…my troubleshooting points to the motor.
I recently purchased a pair of Flipsky "battle-hardened 6355 140kv outrunners (10mm shaft) that are on their way. Pretty sure the existing motors are 200kv - so I opted for torque over speed, though I will never reach the limits of either on any motor I use.
I still half-expect this to not solve the problem and suspect I will end up replacing the ESC (and if not now, then eventually for sure) - so I am wavering back-and-forth between Maker-X and FlipSky FSESC. Also not sure about 4.x/6 - I plan to run in sensored BLDC mode (the motors I bought have sensor wires) I suspect that my minimum needs means that just about anything I get will work - I’ll never approach the limits of any of this hardware and if that is the case then I just need a reason to choose one over the other. If there is a stand-out choice for an application like mine then I haven’t seen that documented (even as opinion) yet on these forums (that I have read). I will also need a remote (I really like the trigger ones) and I know those are out there for around $30 with a ppm receiver. There are also limitations on the stock battery which I am fine with - it delivers more power than I need.
Is a boutique ESC like the Maker-X a good idea for me (I prefer as little tinkering as possible, but I have done this before) - and is 4.x more reliable for low-power applications, or does it make more sense for the difference in price to install something with ver 6? The price diff is less important to me than having something that will run for another 4-5 years.
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There she is! She’s been great. Thanks.
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The first one, idk about them. The second one, fiberglass is sufficient enough.
I don’t know about the 90mm hardware kits. But the seller eboardshop is @dickyho and he’s reputable.
Yeah, that’s basically it. My wires were backwards on my DV6. Also the motors should be plugged in to the DV6 to test it. The Maker x mini doesn’t have the power to test that motor, so it will bug out since that goes over the limit in erpm.
Maker x is a decent esc to use, especially for low powered boards. You’ll probably just need a DV4. But a DV6 is better if you ever decide to go with a much bigger motor.
Also, you can check out maytech remote. It’s a trigger remote.
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I had the puck remote working on the Mini FOC plus before it went kaput. Can’t get it to work on the DV6 but possibly will try swapping some wires.
Yeah the DV6 is awesome. I’ve loaned one from my 4wd board to get my short board working. Need a good single ESC to replace the DV6 now. Only running 1 motor on my short board so DV6 is wasted in there! Not much out there as far as single ESCs now.
It probably might work again. And I had mine on the Maker x retro. It didn’t work until I flipped the connectors. Red seems to still be the same.
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Man, there is more than ever. The TB6, the Unity or any of its derivatives, the LittleFOCer, the FOCBOX, the Stormcore D or S series, all of those make a kick-ass single drive.
What motor? What battery?
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Torqueboards lost me. I would had brought it otherwise.
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There are many options there aside from that. The ESC itself isn’t bad. It has a weird 5V pin on the CANBUS line but that’s rarely an issue and easy to get around when it is.
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