Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Don’t plug it in when it’s live or add a switch that makes the connection faster.

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You get that pop because you charge straight up at 50 god damn amps. Barrel plugs are also rated for like 3A.
Reduce the current to the minimum before plugging the board and the fireworks stop

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They get the full current, but for roughly a third of the time one way, a third of the time the other way around and then clear. So between phase A and B, in 3 seconds at 100A, one second will be spent delivering 100A from A to B, one second delivering 100A from B to A and one second the line is neutral.
For the sake of simplicity, you need 50A thermally capable wires to continuously run your 75A phase current setup

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How do i calculate wheelbite ?

Concret problem : with 85mm wheels on 180mm Rkp trucks, how much riser do i need to get rid of wheelbite ?

Abstract question : is there a way to calculate/aproximate this kind of problem for a given deck width/trucks/wheels ?

17 not 50

also tried at 1 amp and the same thing

Many chargers have protections that trip when you plug the battery with no power coming from the wall. They only release once you disconnect both and plug in the wall first and then board

Do you charge from 0%? Is the supply providing the correct voltage? Does it have an electronic release button?
Seems like that thing is made to be a bench power supply and gives full power while no battery is detected. Neither my 4A or 12A chargers give any spark because they only sense for incoming voltage when not drawing power

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If you have the parts in your hands you take the kingpin nuts out and steer to the maximum angle both ways. Wheelbite depends heavily on the shape, concave, cutout of the deck and baseplate angles. For example on a bustin sportster deck, pneumatics with drop-through just won’t happen. The deck only has cutouts to allow for medium urethane wheels

Easiest answer is to post your parts on this forum and ask others that use it already to provide some insight.

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thank you :slight_smile:
that’s funny the way i learnd a lot about electric skates in the last years, but i still have so much to learn about regular skates xD

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this :arrow_down:

and also, it depends if you’re going to do wheel wells in the deck or not

I’d guess about 14mm of riser but IDK, I’d test it physically myself. You can usually get by with less riser if you make wheel wells. Like @Athrx said, take the kingpin nut and roadside bushings off and test it out. Then put it together, stand on it and lean both ways with your weight. Test ride it a bit.

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it currently is constantly outputing 50.4v at whatever amps
maybe thats the issue. i will go and put an xt90s in the thing in order to stop the inrush current and the spark

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Don’t use that to charge your batteries!

Do you have a photo or model number?

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Charge port is always live and is the reason why you don’t really use XT connectors. I’m not sure since I don’t use XT as a charge port.

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gophert 6517
it says constantly when i turn on outputing 50.4v at 0amps and then when i plug in it goes up to 17amps or whatever i set it to
many other users use it so def a safe option

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i believe quite a few people use xt60 or xt30 for them
hopefully will get some more feedback

Oh yeah you can use that. I thought you were saying you couldn’t limit the amperage like it wasn’t a CC/CV supply.

Well yeah then 17A is a LOT I wouldn’t charge that fast unless you NEED to. Like, “need” need not a “want” need.

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its a big pack and mooch said no issue
12s8p p42a
gonna put an antispark at the end of it to stop the spark and then should be all good

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How much motor amps can unity put out?

That’s a complicated question. There are 8 versions of Unity.

Unity
Unity+
Xenith
Tenka
Unity Super Single
Unity+ Super Single
Xenith Super Single
Tenka Super Single

The first 3 will all be very similar.

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plain old unity.