@MartinSp i see you bridged something here, could this cause issues if not done properly? Btw im not bashing your work, just want to know whether i need to redo something to get it right or if i need to get a new controller. @b264 the motors should be good, they run well on the slave side.
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Yeppers.
My og set up was an upside down baseplate. Worked well with the particular adapter I had.
I could not get a nice one like sender has so I made the new one out of aluminum bar stock.
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It could be an issue if not done properly. There was a burned trace on the PCB which I fixed by running a wire instead. However I test the devices before (if possible) and after a repair to determine if it was successful.
Try doing the detection without the motor. You are trying to measure the motor parameters not the parameters of the whole drive assembly, you should always do the detection without belt/gear connection unless it is a hub motor. The current when doing a motor detection is lower than the current you use when mowing so that cogging and hesitation could be due to that. If the issue persists you could try increasing the current. However mouse over the parameter that is adjustable on detection page and that will show you help, or clicking on “?” symbol next to most parameters. Im not sure if this is present in the current version of VESC tool but in the earlier versions there were recommendations to try to get certain value as low as possible while still getting a successful detection etc. I am not at the shop at the moment so I can not check, I could tomorrow if you happen to not solve this by then.
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As you can see it spins detection flawless, results below.
Then when moving forward or reverse this happens and it also does this when riding
I increased the max and min amps to 5 as you can see in the first video and it still has this problem.
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Not in the general wizard but in the motor wizard right? As explained here VESC BLDC Tool - Motor Wizard Instructions – DIY Electric Skateboard
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No hole.
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BLDC uses your motor motions as you add current to move. If you are going up a hill or trying to stop, you’ll notice that it will just keep going if you add reverse mode to it. This is usually why you do not add reverse in sensorless. Most of the time you have to kick push it to get it going.
And trust me, you do not want to try to stop while having reverse mode moving on the streets trying to not hit anyone. I learned that the hard way.
Edit: why do I not double check things beforehand lol
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Find one that says TX and RX on the port itself. That’s how I found it on my retro.
But for that esc, I don’t know myself.
Loctite your motor screws, yes. Anything else with nylon in the nut doesn’t need it. Wanted to respond to that.
do you guys think 4oz of milliput is enough to battle harden 4 6354 motors?
learned this the hard way when my motor fell off two miles from home 
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I bought some cheap hubs second had while I wait for my hummie hubs to be made
Does anyone know which sensor wires go to which?
There is 5 sensor wires on the hubs but 6 on the connectors I have and some of the colours are different.
Any help would be greatly appreciated 
I’m assuming it’s a blind hole so you can’t just push the bearing out the other side?
If that’s the case, you can use the ghetto hydraulic method:
Find something that’s squishy enough to take the shape of whatever you hammer it into, but thick enough to not go through the small gap between the shield and the inner race. Very thick grease will work, or wet tissue paper, or slightly soggy bread, doesn’t really matter what as long as it’s the right consistency.
Get a punch or shaft of some sort that’s a close sliding fit with the ID of the bearing. Pack the ID of the bearing full of whatever material mentioned above, and then use the punch to pound that material down, out of the ID and back behind the bearing. Fill the ID back up again, and repeat the process.
Each time you do this you’re increasing the pressure behind the bearing, and eventually it’ll start to come forward.
Keep going until the bearing has popped entirely out, then clean out the disgusting mess you’ve made behind it.
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Do not add white. That’s pretty much it. The other colors can go together. Whatever isn’t there, you can add that color to it.
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Black is ground, red is +5v, green yellow and blue are the hall sensors, and white is the temperature sensor.
Just leave white unconnected, connect red to red, and black to black, and the other three can go any which way.
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No, that’s a real old version. I don’t think the new wizards even offer BLDC as an option.
For BLDC motor detection, just do it manually.
tap 1, then 2 and read everything there
The defaults may work fine for a little 5045 or something. I usually increase 3, 4, 5 to something like this for a 6380 size motor:
I: 12A
ω: 250 erpm
D: 0.12 (12% duty cycle)
That’s a BLDC motor detection
Then write the values… don’t forget that…
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Slightly not related, but why am I warned not to use FOC on a vesc4 without cooling? I’ve just been curious and its been bugging me.