A dremel really isn’t the best tool for this. I know because I have both, and have done this on my Hummie and also other routing with the dremel. A router is a shit ton better and easier for this. If you’re buying shit, a cheap router and bit will be easier and better for this.
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Mine wasn’t the cheapest but I bought a ryobi from the local bunnings
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Because others have done this and cracks have propagated from corners of the extended cutouts
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Yeah but how much is a router and how much use can it see beyond this one use case…
@Halbj613 i routed mine and abused the shit out of it. I’m talking taking potholes as speed where you can’t feel your legs after, on pneumatics, and it’s still in 1 piece, although 8mm axles are consumables at this point. Routing to make space for a 12s4p p42a pack is definetly gentle on it
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Depends how big you are bro and use case.
I’m 100kg and didn’t want risk of cracks.
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yeah thats the reason i dont really want i router as its a one time use
i would probably just give it a quick dirty carbon firber layer or two for peace of mind
im light but gonna have to route quite a bit so guess i will just do that
thanks guys gonna see what i can do
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Idk man I’ve seen a few cracked hummies, and with his 4wd setup, that’s a lot more unsprung weight on the edges of the board, along with the battery. Routing too much will definitely be problematic.
I mean I’m sure he’s light but still
Your pnummies help btw, they take away some instantaneous inertia
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You saying I shouldn’t route at all or if I route and then strengthen with cf then it should be fine?
That is my personal opinion yes. But if you go to a woodshop, I guarantee you they won’t just let you use it
You need to know how to safely use it. In addition, the carbon fiber would be hugely detrimental to their tools, so you’d probably want to bring a router bit that is compatible… And it just gets complicated
If I was in your situation I would have just built the battery differently so it fit in the hummie deck in the first place, and then solved the space problem with a thicker enclosure
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Yep I tried building battery to smallest size
At this point either I get the deck routed or I just change to a larger deck
I’d just go for a bigger deck, not worth it possibly breaking and costing you even more money and headache later if you route out too much material
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Yeah was looking and opened a thread
Looks like a demonseed is a good option if I can get my hands on one with an enclosure
Otherwise an evo or something would be great
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Hi guys!
Is making/using adapters in my build a bad idea? The motors I’m gonna use have 4 mm bullet connectors, my vesc has 5.5mm bullet connectors and xt90s, my antispark has xt60 and I don’t know about battery yet but most likely it will be xt90. I know the preferred way to go is to just solder new connectors directly on either of the parts, but I don’t want to fuck with any warranty or risk destroying the parts, also I kinda want to keep the parts as they are in case I want to change up my build later on. So what I’m thinking is making/getting:
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4 mm (female) to 5.5 mm (male) bullet connector adapter from my motors to vesc.
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xt90s (female) to xt6 (male) adapter from my vesc to anti spark and solder a battery indicator on it.
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xt60 (female) to xt90 (male) adapter from my anti spark to battery and solder the battery wire for my remote (flipsky vx1) receiver on it.
So to follow up on my original question, is this a bad idea? I know that the more connectors I have, the more resistance I’m gonna create, but how much will it matter in this case? Is it anything else that I’m missing that I should be aware of? All the wires (except battery indicator, remote receiver and maybe the battery) is 10 awg by the way.
Thanks!
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That did not work, but the telemetry is working now for all except the boards battery % though. I think the receiver needs to be plugged in last after everything else on the vesc is setup. There is nothing really to setup after you do the initial settings on the remote.
Hey, im looking for a budget(ish) way to get AT/cloud wheel drivetrain (motor, truck, wheel, esc)… I realistically have $500, but would rather spend less. I’m perfectly fine with used and my batteries can sustain 90A @ 10S voltage.
It’s not necessarily bad, but it’s not good either.
I’d say that if you’re using adapters to avoid soldering then yeah it’s probably bad. If you’re using them for another reason, maybe not.
Adding an adaptor adds a lot of risks but few (electrical) benefits. Now you have to take steps to make sure the connectors can’t vibrate apart, take steps to make sure the bullet connectors can’t short together or to anything else. If you just soldered the wires together it’s generally more reliable.
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Thanks!
The motors are the ones I’m most willing to solder tbh and the ones that seems like has the biggest risk of vibrating apart, so I think I should do that (changing 4 mm bullet connectors to to 5.5 mm bullet connectors).
But I still kinda wanna keep the xt90/xt60-adapters (unless it’s a big risk), would wrapping them in electrical tape when connected together be a good safety measures or just a waste?
I would start by looking at @dickyho 's online shops, he has several setups that are very easy to use and at a spectacular price point…6x2 airless, 6x2 pneumatic, and 8x2 pneumatic on extended TKP, RKP, DKP, or channel…all with motors from 5055 to 6384 and CNC motor mounts
Not all items are listed in the stores, each store has slightly different listings
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