That would work. Just make sure that small wire is fused, so that if you have a moment of dumb and try to ride without both keys in, it won’t melt that wire and possibly set something on fire.
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Looking to get a Metr pro for my 4WD build using Unity’s. (I read some bad reviews about the Metr pro unity so was gunna stay clear).
Silly question but what purpose does the GPS serve is it just tracking your location ?
And where does it plug into?
Is it essential to have the GPS or can you make do without it and just have the metr pro /what’s the benefit of it?
Thanks
mostly yes. You can use the location data to calculate speed and distance instead of calculating it via RPM but thats not the preferred way. (rpm is the way)
And for regular logging of your rides.
If you use the regular metr pro, the GPS gets tracked via your Phone. If you use Metr pro CAN, it gets either tracked via phone or external GPS module that gets connected to the metr.
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If I have a Metro pro, can I do motor detection and all that stuff via bluetooth in the app or I can only do it in unity, Xenith, trampa dongle and the stormcore vescs?
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Metr also supports Motor and sensor detection, remote calibration etc.
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I assume you mean metr pro
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Is it possible to set up a fresh board without laptop connection?
Possible? Yes.
Recommended? Hell no.
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Well damn, thank you!
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got a hummie deck and in order to fit 21700 cells in it i need a couple milimetres more space on either side of the cutout
is routing a bit more wood out safe for the deck? and if so what is the best way to do it?
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I did this with my mk1 direct drive motors JB welded some 10k thermistor to the stationary part of the can. Works well.
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a small ammount routing I believe is ok (ive done it recently) to fit 12s4p 21700 cells (40T). I followed @donta42 ’ s build thread, where he shows how to do it. He uses a router, but i know others who have used a dremel and it’s been fine too. I used a router and i would advise practicing on some scrap wood first, those things are scary powerful.
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i think ive found some with connectors on both ends…just wanted check if you think these will be fine to connect the 2 ESC’s (presumably they will)?
dont have a router so was planning on using a dremel
(dunno if you can call that routing)
im pretty light but is there any chance it will take away from the structural integrity of the deck
also is 5-7mm on either sied to much?
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tbh i dont know 100% , but ive read somewher here that if you dont route all the way to the edges you’ll be ok. the fact you’re light is definitely on your side
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yep nice
wont be routing all the way to the edges as just need down the middle
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I would remove the +5 and GND wire if it’s two ESC. There is a quirk if one ESC is powered off it can blow you canbus transceivers.
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Do the new flipsky 6384 motors have a good rep? I just found out anubis has them in stock, so I might jump on that instead of the SK3 6374. (It’s for a 1WD build, I need reliability)
EDIT: Just found out that they are 140kv… Would mean a more reasonable gear ratio is possible to achieve the top speed I want… Any disadvantage to 140kv compared to 190kv?
I’d it’s only a few mm why not just get neoprene rubber foam like 5mm or something will be like £10-15 quid and you don’t have to mess around with the board ?
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Yeah, it’s 2 single ESC’s - 1 per motor.
so you’re saying i have to not plug in the hall sensors from the motors? (im assuming this because GND covers the hall sensors). And the +5 im not familiar with, which connector is that?
Ultimately I don’t need to do anything clever with this, just daisy-chain these ESC’s together to use on a street build (…presumably they do need to be connected if im using Bluetooth…?), but the extra components needed to do this is stacking up (and as they say less components=less opportunity of failure). Is it this finicky with the Trampa VESC’s (the single ones), or is the design on these unusual? (it’s my first build so im not aware of whats normal)