Is there any difference in efficiency or power between 200kv 1:3 and 100kv 1:6 on the same size wheels (or any other examples of this)
Thanks. The anti-spark seems easy, but ive googled CAN-L and nothing comes up (tried googling Canbus-L, but no luck either). Could you poss link the product i need?
CH and CL on the port labelled CAN on the esc you have.
Check if you have any cables that fit in the cables that came with the escs.
Connect esc 1 CH to esc 2 CH
Connect esc 1 CL to esc 2 CL
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yeah, i have no other cables that were included, ill need to source them…i take it they’re difficult to find?
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just solder the wires on the pins 
no crimp no plugs no pain
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Do any of those cables fit?
They are easy to source and fairly cheap, should be JST-GH based on this
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We have some here, I’m about to list them this week on our site
One of them does fit, but id have to have 2 of them and solder their ends together? Does that sound right? but theyve only given me 1
yep, one connector for each esc
if you have a crimp tool just get a female JST-GH and crimp that on
if you don’t have a crimp tool, get a bunch of female 4 pin JST-GH and solder the wires together
if you don’t feel like soldering, get a JST-GH 4pin female-female cable, remove the two outer cables and swap the 2 middle ones so that CH goes to CH and CL to CL
or ali/ebay/wherever
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If I add an extra washer to space out my wheel for the motor, do I need to add a washer to every wheel to even it out?
cheers man, just ordered some…from china lol, only place apparently (ebay).
I dream of the day that folks include bluetooth and antispark built into the ESC ;-D
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i would say it doesn’t matter for just 1mm washer, but some might disagree
some of my board have more washer on one side than the other for belt alignment, and im still alive 
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xenith, 60d and 100d : lol wut?
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And spintend which is also hv
(i was ripping on Maker-X ;-D)
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I’ll just add one to each side to make myself feel better😂
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In all seriousness though, if the built in antispark would die, there is a good chance you would have to replace the whole vesc
My current favorite meter (I have two) is the Uni-T UT-210E. It does all the usual stuff, and also has an AC/DC clamp meter function so you can measure up to 100A non invasively (without disconnecting anything to out the meter in series.)
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Speaking of anti spark, how can you tell when yours fails? Are they’re any noises? Will the board stop working?
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