9/16" (same as kingpin on regular skateboard)
(really old ones used to be 1/2" same as regular skateboard)
2 Likes
Cunninghamâs Law is the best.
3 Likes
In addition to be our go to Elvis impersonator, you now have the title of the âMinister of Misinformationâ
2 Likes
I think I speak for everybody here when I say;
âWe demand videoâ
1 Like
Videos take too damn long to consume, I prefer text and photos typically.
But for this, video is demanded
Alright guys, I think Iâm finally starting to understand why everyone likes the 3 links.
I adjusted my rear truck to a more stable angle and now the board feels entirely different. Iâm glad I finally got around to fixing the board, itâs great to be riding again.
@MoeStooge thereâs a squeak coming from the large, main rod end of my front truck. I assume i should just lubricate it right? anything I need to be careful about lube-selection wise so as not to potentially damage the bushings?
5 Likes
If it is a creak, check your baseplate bolts. A squeak would most likley come from the radius rods and not the main heim. Use a light oil. Shouldnât take much
4 Likes
Turns out I misdiagnosed the issue. It was much worse than a poorly lubricated rod end.
I noticed feeling more and more unstable as I was riding today. I figured i was imagining it since I donât have much mileage on the board yet. Around the same time i noticed some strange behavior on braking. It felt like the board would pull slightly to the left upon breaking and would even do so slightly upon coming off the throttle (i think this was the cause of the feeling of instability). Luckily i reduced speed and got home before anything fell apart, but this was a bit of a sketchy situation in retrospect.
It seems like what happened is the rear left collar which is used for mounting the radius rods to the axle has loosened itself. The screws which both hold the radius rod on and rotationally lock the collar to the axle seem to have worked their way out over the course of the ride, leading to more and more slop in the system over time.
hereâs a video of what I think happened during riding. turns out the collar rotating was also the cause of that squeak as well i think.
@MoeStooge do these screws come with Loctite pre-installed or was I supposed to do that myself? I havenât had to move this side of the radius rods, so these collars are still just as I received them. My current plan is to replace this button head screw with a = socket cap one then then use something like Loctite 290 to hopefully prevent this from happening again, does that seem reasonable?
4 Likes
No loctite on needed on the rod collar mounts. There is a tightening sequence that needs followed for proper seating of the mount.
- Back off the clamp screw.
- align the rod mount bolt with the hanger slot and tighten to firm.
- lastly, tighten the clamp screw. Tightening the clamp screw last pins the rod mount bolt in the slotâŚ
Fwd to 6.11 for tightening sequence.
4 Likes
Ok, but why do you think this fell off then? I wasnât the one who set this collar up, so presumably it was been done correctlyâŚ
Is there a reason I shouldnât loctite this?
You can use blue if you like. We do not use it on these.
Possible issues:
- not properly tightened from us.
- not properly tightened by user
- faulty collar
Let me know what you determine and we will help you make it right.
7 Likes
Doing this is critical to getting the rod mount bolt perpendicular to the milled slot in the axle.
I too was having to retighten frequently but this is the key to having it stayâŚand a dot of 243 FTW.
4 Likes
Upon further inspection, the screw on the other rear collar has also loosened itself (though hasnât worked itâs way out as much). The front ones seem solid though. Iâll probably just reinstall all of âem with loctite and check on the tightness every 10 miles or so for the first 100.
1 Like
I put blue loctite on everything that doesnât have a nylon locking ring, waited 24 hours and havenât had anything come loose. I check before almost every ride, at minimum a visual check, and zero issues.
Throw some blue on there and give it a night to fully cure, should be good to go. 
4 Likes
actually, seems like it was none of the above. I think the root of the issue here is the tolerance stack between the (Screw-Split washer-rod end-collar-axle slot) system. Essentially, the screw is not really the right length to go through all the aforementioned. things and then properly interface with the slot, so no matter how hard itâs tightened, it never really does anything other than clamp the rod end to the collar.
To test this theory I removed the split washer from the stack, in effect substantially lengthening the screw so that it can definitely reach the bottom of the axleâs slot/flat but will no longer properly clamp the rod end. Here I only need to slightly tighten down the screw to rigidly rotationally connect the collar to the axle. notice when i try to twist the collar, it can not move without also rotating the axle and everything else on it.
and then hereâs what it looks like normally (with the washer installed as i received the trucks). notice how the collar still has some freedom to move around despite being clamped much harder than previously.
In both these cases, the collarâs normal clamping screw is fully loosened.
5 Likes
All stop!
What you have managed to do is open the gap on the split collar past where it was designed to rest.
By removing the washer and cranking down the rod mounting bolt you have now damaged the clamp collar by spreading it open too far.
I will send you replacement collars at no charge but you need to follow instructions as use as intended.
Other option is send me back your rear truck for inspection and repair.
3rd option return the trucks and I refund you.
Do not use the rear collars. They have been compromised.
8 Likes
Yeah, what youâre saying makes sense.
To be clear, the reason I tried this whole thing shown in the above videos is that I tried attaching the collar as per the directions but was unable to get it to clamp properly.
What I tried the first time was this:
- start with the collar screw snug and the clamp screw fully out
- screw in the clamp screw over the slot area until I feel any resistance. Stop, and gently work the collar back and forth to find the center of the slot.
- once the screw is centered, I tighten it a bit more. About like in the first video.
- crank down the collar screw
- crank down the clamp screw
I concede I probably fucked something up though. Not disagreeing with that.
I really appreciate you taking the time to help me with this. Great customer service.
I guess Iâll just replace the collars and hope for the best.
3 Likes
We are out of the shop for a race at Maryhill, Wa but will be back Tuesday/Wednesday and will get new rod collars out to you then. Need your email address.
5 Likes