Yeah being transparent I got lucky and paid $180 for a v1 on a group buy with Eileen. Since I had so many issues and provided a bunch of initial feedback (I even sent her a nano v2 to cut up and see if they could use any of the magic that goes into those). So she hooked me up and replaced my v1 with this v2.
Do you have any thoughts on improving the signal strength further with another more robust antenna?
Do you have signal strength concerns? Concerns are usually not about the antenna, but external signal jacking.
Based on the experience I had with the v1, the entire time I’ve been testing this v2 I’ve been extremely nervous. So looking to improve it anyway I can.
It did display one or zero bars more than once while I’ve been riding around NYC. On the Jersey side never went below 2 bars while I was looking at it.
Ask her what algorithm did the v1 use.
just asked - I’ll reply back here with her feedback.
She says it’s the same algorithm as V1 but now the signals just stronger…
Had a weird thing happen today - I was by the UPS in downtown manhattan waiting for the intersection’s light to change, and when I went to hit the throttle nothing happened. Looked at the remote and it said zero bars but then all came back and it worked fine again.
Found this weird because any other kind of signal issues the motors would spin up. Is this because I wasn’t moving when it happened?
Signal was overloaded, this is what happened to me with the GT2B while in motion. Your failsafe is set correctly so it didn’t go full throttle, but lost signal and went to failsafe neutral throttle.
Not a good sign, as my GT2B with less robust DSSS protocol does the same.
Damn just as my confidence was growing with this thing.
Is there anyway to know if it would have went full throttle if this happened while I was moving?
Is there a quick explanation as to why the nano never drops but this thing does? What is so special about the nano’s algorithm, signal strength, etc
Put board upside down on bench, turn remote on, turn board on, apply throttle, turn remote off, observe how board reacts.
Good question about the Nano, I have no knowledge or experience with it.
ok thanks it’s stops spinning the motors after I apply throttle and turn off the remote while throttle is applied.
Also when I have the board on but turn on the remote with the throttle applied it doesn’t spin until I fully release the throttle then apply it again.
Ok so after using this remote for awhile now. I think I’m going to hold off on putting it on more than one board.
I didn’t have any major issues. However, I had enough that I’m slightly sketched out by it. It appears that the signal is MUCH improved over the V1 receiver but it still doesn’t handle massive amounts of interference well. Seems to mainly be an issue if you are rolling through an area of high interference slowly, probably because of the prolonged exposure to high interference. When I did have signal issues this is what happened:
Went unresponsive if I was not moving. Then one time it did actually kinda jerk around on me while I was moving. This was on my commuter 12s3p with a questionable Unity installed at low speed. So I’m going to test more on a board with dual focobox’s but I am for sure sketched out about this remote again.
Hey dude, I’m using the v1 remote and experienced a couple of disconnects today that had me stuck in full throttle 
do you know if there is a way to set a failsafe on the v1?
Hmm. So I tried what @malJohann suggested and the motors do indeed cut out at loss of signal. But they keep going at the last throttle reading for at least a full second after power down on remote.
Have you checked the user manual?
I don’t believe I received one.
Google “maytech #insertmodelnumberhere# remote user manual”.
Can only find the manual for the v2
I’d be surprised if the failsafe works any different.