make sure whatever board/enclosure you use doesn’t flex the battery… I’ve seen more than a few of their batteries, and they all are connected with nickel across the series connections…
and no isolation between Pgroups
a stripped nekkid mike fucking beard 10s3p battery
a flexy deck and an mBored battery is a dangerous thing…
Ooook wow that does not look good. My deck has no flex and my enclosure has more than enough room to safely accommodate the battery, so hopefully it’ll be safe. Jesus christ never buying that shit again
I’d recommend BluPengy but he’s been MIA taking care of family…
that’s all I can think of at the moment…
I’ve fixxerated some, and it’s a pain in the ass just to make them safe and salvage the cells… i bought the one in the pik above for 30 bux when I showed the owner all that needed to be done to make the pack safe and efficient…
Skyart is probably your best bet, he’s the closet and he’s fast. I can do it but it would take a while because classes are eating all my time and shipping is at least $30 or something
@ARZ I could definitely build this. My workbench is currently clear, so i could start on it ASAP (as soon as cells arrive, or use cells I have in stock). I do this stuff full time, so I could bang this out quick!
I actually have a couple 10s3p here on my end, but you’re gonna have to take me out on a fancy date first before we talk business. Maybe a few more dates, settle down and have 2 kids then I’ll consider
What other parts do you have / a picture of your current board? Hard to recommend enclosures if we don’t know what your deck looks like
Apart from the 1 temperature caused issue turning the antispark off (which has been fixed in FW) and some dodgy phase wire soldering on the very 1st batch, I think there are no real issues to speak of, although I have no idea how many are out in the wild being used.
It’s definitely the true Unity successor in my opinion, and I would recommend it.