The board was not used/charged for 4 years and the battery reads 0,3V/cell so that’s a shame (12S2P 9,6Ah 21700 LG/Sanyo? red cells)
I think I gonna make a new 12S2P pack with samsung 50S cells.
But I thought this would have a cheap chinese 10S 20A motorcontroller (around 750W) so I was really confused that the battery was 12S (and not 10S like most chinese cheap boards)
I opened the cover and the motorcontroller looks like a vesc and has 2 micro usb ports and a build-in remote receiver.
He had no remote, but should this just work with a Flipsky remote?:
Does anybody know something about this brand or about this motor controller/hub motors/remote?
Because I have never seen this and I have never a build with a vesc so yeah.
But it still looks like a good deal for 80€
Yes that’s the controller! That would be nice if it still works. @sevenfloorsdown Yeah it was sold by a 70 years old man and it was not used for 4 years and still in the original box so very strange.
I found a website where they sell a board with the same hub motors:
They say “Two internal motors of approximately 1200 watts”
And then they say 6000W total power
I think I would like to run these around max power 750W each but no idea what they can handle, and if they have temp sensors inside?
Hard to know for sure unless you can get it connected to vesc tool or open up the motors, but if the sensor wires have 6 wires rather than 5, i’d say they do.
IIRC the remote receiver was baked into that esc and it was not possible to use a different remote with it… you’d need to try and find the same remote
It is possible that the only similarity between the esk8supply remote and the ownboard remote is just the case. It will be interesting to see how this plays out
Yeah I think I gonna buy a Flipsky remote link in my original post (the print looks exactly the same as the one which is integrated into the controller) and try if pairing works.
I also found more information on boundmotors who is using the same motors, they say the power is around 600W and max current is 50A
I have connected it to the vesc tool and these are some settings, I also tested the motor rotation so that was the first time the motor spins
Then I tried NRF quick pairing when I put my remote from ownboard in pairing mode, but it doesn’t work.
In the vesc tool I can only find in the general app settings to choose only ppm (instead of ppm and uart) like in the pictures above.
Or what do you mean?
So the new Flipsky vx1 pro remote won’t work.
It’s using a E28-2G4M12S chip while on the dual vesc a E01-ML01SP4 chip is build in and in the original remote is also a E01-ML01SP4 chip
These 2 chips can’t work together.
I found a picture of boundmotor which gives some more information about the free taps to connect a seperate receiver? I don’t know for sure but I think it’s for debugging.
And we are back! The seller of the board found the lost remote and charger and I got the board running for the first time
I “revived” the battery, charged every cell very slowly until 4V and then charged the pack with a 2A charger so the bms could do the last work.
I would never believe the pack would be able to remain on the same voltage but it does.
Did a test run with my 500W ebike and I was able to do 30km (by only using the throttle) so okey “prety” good in my opinion.
I put in under the board and went for a 2km test drive.
The wheels are giving such a smooth ride But I noticed 5 things:
One motor was prety warm but okey to touch, while the other motor was really hot and I couldn’t keep my fingers on the motor cover.
I just run the motor in the vesc tool in realtime from slow to fast and I have the graphs from the left and right motor below. (I think it’s strange that the “current in” graph is not the same on both motors?)
I checked the vesc parameters and the “app to use” setting is different, one side had AURT+PPM selected while the other side has only PPM selected.
Is this normal that it is different on both vescs? Or is it because one is master and the other is slave?
The max speed was only 25km/h so I guess the battery is just not able to deliver the power needed to go faster, OR is there a vesc setting which reduces the topspeed?
The remote has 3 speed modes, 95% duty cycle + 60% duty cycle + 40% duty cyle so I guess this is okey.
But I don’t know if there’s a RPM setting which reduces the speed?
One small thing, when I brake and I’m almost standing still the last second, the motor makes a strange “grrrrr” sound, the rest is smooth but only the last second of braking.
I always get a notification in the vesc tool that the slow abs current limit is set. Now I set the max current scale to 100% and the minimum current scale to 50% (or is this just a standard warning because the setting is used?
