I think if you cut deeper it would still be fine because of the supporting structure around it. But I get your point.
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You are probably right but I prefer play safe. There is not that much left on top. I agree that the lateral walls are super solid and most likely enough
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Checked the P groups on my NESE the other day 
all balanced and still going strong. Love it
I think Iâm the only one that has done the NESE in a top mount box situation so far
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21700 how about measurments for those I couldnât find them on site
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You have to pick the fixing type as well, size wonât show otherwise.
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im getting confused as this shows his batteries stacked vertical in one stack. Where all other diagrams I see are 2 stacked ontop of each other.
(photo curtousy of @mishrasubhransu
I want to do a 10s3p with molicell p42a
And on the site the 21700 moduleâs i select 3p and it shows a 3 battery holder.
Wouldnât it be easier to do less boxes and do them verticle?
Which boxes would i order?
Would a 6s holder be possible? Would be interesting for slim boards.
Thinking about picking up 100 VTC6âs for my MBS DWII over the winter, was planning on using the NESE system on a top mount as well. Though I do plan on using some water resistant / proof casement like a pelican or knockoff.
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There are 2 types of enclosures, single P group like 3P, 4P etc and dual, 2S2P, 2S3P and 2S4P. Those were made for skateboards. It saves you some 5+mm in width over 2 x 3P modules.
In photo you have modules that are stacked side by side. On ebikes people stacking them top to bottom. Also off road skateboards use top to bottom stacking with mounting battery on top of the deck.
If you want battery pack that is same as on the photo, you need 5pcs 21700 2S3P modules.
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To understand the connection, understand that top half of a box is a separate parallel group and bottom half is a separate parallel group. If you zoom into the figure you can see the boxes have been numbered. C0-, C0+,C1,C2,âŚC9. if you measure the voltage between C0- and C9 it should be 42V when fully chargedâŚ
I would strongly suggest to go for 5 x 2S4P modules to make a 10s4p module. If I am not mistaken price will be almost the same 2S3P modules so why not get the best bang for you buck?
If you canât buy more 21700 cells now, you can add them later(careful though, every cell has has to be charged to same voltage first)
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Wandering if 38mm tall battery pack is of any use? Have couple of ideas and i can fit 10S8P in roughly 380x154x38mm or 12S6P in ~340x154x38. It can also be 380x154x20 for 10S4P or ~340x154x20 for 12S3P.
I am chewing on idea making single enclosure system.
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Wondering if fishpaper circles are needed when using the Nese modules. It seems to me that the fitment is so tight, even fish paper circles are too much and make closing the cover very difficult
I added but donât think is needed
It depends on how many people use that big of a pack. That got me curious too. Let me create a poll.
I have no doubt this will sell like crazy if you make a single unit where people just have to plug in batteries.
I am already imagining it. Custom tabs that fold in a tight u shape and dropped in while 3D printing? Basically no external connection except at the ends? I am wondering how youâll make balance connection.
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No, fish paper necessary at all. Even if you use naked cells.
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I agree compact size single battery holders like 10s3p, 10s4p, 12s3p and 12s4p will fulfill most of the cases.
Fpr the balance lead you can leave the holes from the side so that you can solder it from the outside or where desing the tabs with small lips facing outwards.
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Yeah, thatâs what I would do. But was wondering what would @Agniusm do since his whole idea is no solder.
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Ah ok I thought no soldering only if you do not what bms but the balance leads parts itâs fairly easy. Remove the serie connection soldering steps is gold.