I soldered them directly in this pack. If you look at my other pack made with original NESE modules, you’ll see that I did exactly what you are suggesting.
As for the balance, I got ring terminal for them from AliExpress.
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Great, then that’s my plan for connecting the NESE modules to each other and connecting the BMS wires. For securing the NESE modules to the deck, my current plan is to create NESE module TPU mats that will serve three pruposes: leveling, vibration damping, and spacing. What do you think? Here is my first attempt with 10% fill where I am still working on matching the curves of the deck.
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This is awesome. I would suggest creating rectangular 1mm depth cut on either side of the tpu mat so as to place double sided tape there. No need to use screws.
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Hey @Agniusm, so any update on the battery pack? We can and should create a poll to gauge how many people might be interested. BTW, are you thinking of creating new tabs for this or just regular tabs?
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@Agniusm I just watched your assembly video, but did not see you use the Insulation pads you have for sale, so are they needed for samsung 30Qs batteries in your 2s4p module?
They are not needed.
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Thanks, ordered the 10s4p hardware!
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I think this would be so cool, also do a pack where you include everything to install like ring terminals to connect BMs, etc. think you’ll make them or still on the fence?
Why would a 10s3p be the same length as a 10s4p in these but not in “normal” battery packs?
Well there are two orientations for the boxes. In the configuration in which length of the box is along the width of the board, the 10S3P will be as long as the 10S4P modules.
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Ok so I will also need 12 AWG silicone wire, and the BMs wires and ring terminals anyone got a link of the ones they used?
Buying the fasteners in bulk makes it really cost effective(only if you are 3D printing your own boxes, otherwise, I would say, just get everything from 18650.lt).
If you are in the US, then you can buy it from:
M5 Bolt
M5 square nut
M2.9 screw
Balancing crimp connector
Main crimp connector 12-10AWG
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Do people generally heat shrink or tape these packs to protect against shorting. Seems like with all the electrified hardware sticking out, this would be a risk.
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I haven’t seen anyone do it. You probably need one if you leave a 10cm conductive rod floating around in the enclosures 
@mishrasubhransu. Have you posted anywhere how you assemble your designed modules? I am building a 10s4p pack and went with your design for space using 5 2s4p modules. From the pictures it looks like you soldered wires for serial connections? Any guidance on this is much appreciated.
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Can you link exactly which modules did you use. If thingiverse, what’s the file name?
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That’s the correct one. So you use 2-3 layers on double sided tape on the two outer edges of the boxes and paste them on the deck. Have atleast 2mm gap between the boxes. I strip 10/12AWG wire so that they have made into u-shape(seen below) and then I solder them directly onto the tabs. I use a 100watt soldering iron with a big head for quick soldering. for balancing cable I would say route from the side and as close to the surface of the deck as possible and leave slack for flex.
in the pic above I am using a custom module that is curved. It’s a pain in the ass to print so I didn’t release it. They can also be connected to each other using 2 carbon fiber rods. You don’t need that. Just paste the modules directly to the board using 2-3 layers of double sided tape for cushioning and distance.
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Thanks. Did you ever try soldering the tabs together instead of using wire?
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Wire adds flexibility. I won’t directly solder the tabs together.
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