You have nothing to worry about. There is 0.9mm gap with separator and for your peace of mind you can fold some fish paper and insert where separator slopes.
But if you could imagine that with the lid on each cell sits in a cradle and cant move anywhere. I mean you need to smash it completly and even then there is high chance that cells will fall appart untouched from impact?!!
I cant make barrier through the whole length as i need to insert full tab and having another model for 4P+4P is just not worth it as there is no risk. I can assure you that it wont short unless badly damaged with and with anlot of luck for short. Even then it will be least of your worries 
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Trying to minimize any chance of a short since the pack isn’t fully integrated yet. Also, the enclosure is narrow enough in the middle that the caps do not quite fit (which is why the caps at the middle of the pack are missing). Love the fit of those caps btw. Not sure what filament you are using for these but they have the perfect amount of give to grip the bolt heads.
Haha, that’s quite true.
Good question, two reasons.
First, the ends of fuse itself are slightly smaller than the distance from the m5 bolt at the edge of the pack to the edge of the module. As such, the fuse casing would impact the module material and not be able to bolt flat.
Second, the casing on the middle fo the fuse is a plastic non-conductive material, but certainly not load bearing. I’m getting around this using a short bus bar at the pack edge, then the fuse, then the lug. The entire thing is wrapped in 1/2" heat shrink, which lends the rigidity needed to keep the fuse in place without strain (at least that’s the plan)
Here’s a shot of the unwrapped lead:
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These do work for 2s4p. They also work good for 2x 1s4p. I used these to make my 12s4p pack. The divider in the center holds the cells apart well enough, I dont think that its necessary to be all the way across.
I used 21700s and scaled the model up, which resulted in the walls being thicker than they really needed to be. Still, it is much smaller than the original box.
@mishrasubhransu any chance i can sweet talk you into designing the boxes for 21700 so that im not loosing 6mm to wall thickness? 
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I haven’t measured it yet, but will post it to my build thread soon. A full Bill of Materials is linked to from that thread as well.
30% OFF, code: smallisbig
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Looks complicated. Why not just use 8P enclosures and awoid all that wiring nightmare? Only tging it will have power output on opposite ends. You can make flat bus bar out of copper and some heatshrink.
You can even use 2s4p to double up series busbar for more current.
You need to utilize whats inside to have as little as possible outside
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I don’t understand your notation what’s 7s8p?
Looks like 7th 8p group. I agree the notation is unfortunate.
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You’ll probably want to use 2s4p configuration for the two modules on the right hand side at the very least.
Reason being i just made a mistake with the 3d printing, i send the wrong file to the guy printing it for me so 3D printing 12 new cases would quite annoying in my perspective, Just asking if it would work, not if its smart 
Also wondering, the connections atm would be able to sustain 100 amps at terminals right?
I’m trying to use what I have on hand, so instead of 3D printing another set of 12 8p groups I thought I would try and make it work to only 3d printing 6 more 2s4p groups.
Please elaborate, i’m having difficulties visualizing it, what can i say, i’m a visual guy
The difference between 4P+4P and 2S4P is that the latter has one uninterrupted 8P tab that connects the two 4P groups in series. For your right hand side packs that’s exactly what you want. Removes the need for the right-most black wire in your diagram.
This illustrates the idea nicely: NESE, the no solder 18650 battery system
Note the thin black lines that indicate the tabs inside the housings. The one on the very left side is uninterrupted. The top right group is one terminal and bottom right another.
Really not trying to say you do sometging stupid. Thought you are planning on building something not buulding it already
What do you have in term of hardware and printed stuff?
Can you show us the pics of the module you have?
I thought of doing that, but I’m unsure of what the strip from one side to the other would be able to supply 60 amps continous
I have the 3D printed parts, I thought of using a dremel to cut out the middle piece to just use it as an 8p, but I have a small feeling that the 8p taps would be offset by the small gap from the seperator.
And of course I also have the board and other shit, it’s the battery I’m working on atm, not that its relevant.
Edit:
Look at the diagram
No worries man, I wasn’t trying to sound aggressive or anything, just trying to make it clear what I’m trying to do ahahahah.
Edit:
Also thought it was worth mentioning that i’m properly gonna do the enclosure in fiberglass and mount it with some strong as fuck velcro and a strap, so space really isn’t a problem, it’s just whats comfortable between the feet.