I purchased a Carbon fiber deck from Bound Motor. I built a 12s4p Molicel p42 battery. The compartment in the board is so limited in height and width that (for width) the shrink wrap/fishpaper/tape combo cause it to be too tight a fit (ever so slightly) but the big problem is the height or clearance. The series connections are soldered on with 12awg wire. When I screw on the top of the deck I’m literally standing on the battery. Just a few rides and the shrink wrap rubs in certain spots so hard it will wear through eventually. Also the pressure on my cells and solder points is not what I was hoping for (to say the least.) I tried using some rubber stuff I found at work to line the inseam of the compartment to raise the lid, but it’s not enough, as far as I can tell, it’s hard to say exactly how much pressure is on the battery. If I go any higher the top of my deck will be a mound instead of being nicely inlayed. I feel like I could use a Dremel and a sandpaper attachment to widen the compartment a tiny bit around the perimeter of the battery, but I don’t know what to do about the depth. Especially because I’m not sure exactly how it’s constructed with the carbon fiber and all. Say I did deepen it an 1/8 in or so…how will that affect the integrity of the deck? And how could I do that evenly? A router? This sucks, I’m pretty deep into this setup and I really don’t want battery fires looming over me. Any ideas? Mound it up?
u shoudn’t be using thick awg wire for those series connection, use copper braid instead, u will have enough clearance
also, cover the under side of the lid with fishpaper
Switch your series connections out to use either copper nickel sand which or tinned copper braiding and that will help make a little room. I’d also add some neoprene foam to either the lid or top of battery to help with any rub.
I have the same deck and can tell you that the battery needs to be smaller. I’m also running a 12s4p. You could remove the black insulation on those 12awg cables. There is no need for it and it may buy you the few extra mm you need.
If I go to braided series connections, what about the 10 gauge wire I used for the positive and negative on the battery? Resolder while trying to keep the wire as flat as possible and minimal solder? I hate to add anymore heat to the batteries either
Fold the tabs over so they’re on the end of the battery rather than the top
Thanks glyphiks, that’s one of those solutions you hope for, perfect and easy, unlike resoldering all my series connections. I could probably just cut off the silicone wire covering, but some of my soldering points are much to bulky. Unless…what do you guys think about sanding down the bulky solder points and cutting off the silicone covering? I’m just a little worried about making a mess trying to resolder everything and the exposure of my cells to more heat. I did think of using a thin silicone mat between the cells and the nickel tabs to block some heat while resoldering.
that better not be a completely naked battery pack that i’m looking at in this pic
in a carbon deck
Molicels in the raw
Well…not completely
hust a reminder
carbon is conductive
the pic looks like the entire top side of the battery is neked
I appreciate the reminder. The top half was nekked, but now it has kapton tape until I wrap it tomorrow.
I was trying to show the guys who gave advice that I did what the said
You’re gonna want more than kapton over that braid. I’d be putting at least a couple of layers of fish paper
i think 1 layer o fishy on top usually suffices, especially if it’s heatshrunk after
Thanks dudes. I have kapton, fishy and shrink over it now. What do I have to do to get my metr. Minnie to read my speed with this TB DDs? I found that they are 28 pole but I feel like the Minnie isn’t reading speed because I have the motor and wheel pulleys set at 0
try 1/1
Did you wire a power button in the spot above the truck and also use built in battery meter?
baaah but i wanna go [error] mph!