In case someone in UK wants to jump on it
one day left. already assembled with electronics and everything is a good deal.
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For everyone that is building a CNC lathe, mill, router ecc…(MPCNC included) and wants to use Mach3 ( I can give it to you)
then you can use the USB breakout board and have your control electronics for less than 20$. You will then need drivers, motors and power supply.
Options:
1- USB Mach3 4 axis
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32978217478.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.487d3c00UcbDGT&mp=1
Sold separatelly for 5 times more without even change the logo 
but at least you can take the instruction from there. All the breakout boad works in the same way and you can check on Youtube for all the configurations.
https://www.buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-electronic-component-breakout-Mach3-USB-Board
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBoTkRH2E_I
2- Another alternative 5 axis
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33024726952.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.487d3c00UcbDGT&mp=1
3- More expensive 200KHz board, normally at more than 150$ in common CNC shops.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32909812983.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.487d3c00UcbDGT&mp=1
With these breakout boards you get rid of the parallel port and connect it directly to your PC through USB 
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@rey8801 I’m glad I opened this thread! You’ve helped tons of people on here, thank you so much!!
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Totally agree, this thread is very helpful thanks guys!
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No problem. It is really one of my strongest passion so I like to talk about it 
.
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of course the bill build goeas up but look what linear rail can do on a CNC https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_atw3e0nIrghttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_atw3e0nIrg
THese are the cheap ones that you can buy on ebay, Ali ecc but still is day and night. It is not becuase cut alluminum but look at the side wall after cutting, there is no real sign of vibration. That with a Makita routner that in the best days has 0.1mm runout.
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I have to stay out of this thread. Constantly talking myself out of building a desktop aluminum capable machine for my 1 BR apartment 
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I have looked around for a while and never found ER11 Collet over 7mm. Could you link me to a kit that can fit bits larger than 7mm. I’d definitely switch to a spindle if I could use at least up to 3/8” endmills.
ER collets are based on the size. ER11 is up to 7mm bigger doesn’t fit. You need a soundless at least ER16 to go over 7mm…the cheap 500w spindle is microscopic that’s why it has ER11. If you take from 800w spindle and more they all have at least ER16
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Damn, I had hope 
. Anyways, thanks for the info but even spindles up to 1.5kw seem to only use ER11. I really hope I missed something During my research.
Ah ok that’s wierd. Kress 1050 although proprietary collets fits 8mm for sure. I have it. Anyway 6mm bits is pretty large and a light machine will take already a good bite from it. Only wood is recommended in that case.
I will have a look at the rest.
What’s your budget? So I know what to target.
I guess it’s for a router style CNC right?
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It is not that important, lol I mainly use 1/4” endmills but I have a threading bit (side angle cutter) I want to use to cut threads on wooden boxes and lids which I can only find in 3/8”. Other than that I don’t really need to use bigger than 1/4 end mills. Actually my x carve isn’t really rigid enough to support the weight of a heavy spindle so ideally 800w would be plenty for wood and occasional aluminum and 1.5kw would be great but that’s pushing it with the state my machine is right now.
what do you have know? Because threading will only work if you have rigid tapping ability and I do not think you have a servo motor for that on standard X-carve
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No budget right now as I am looking at options so I can save money for the purchase.
For the moment I maily use this one for threading https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33010991409.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dBwIClo
it fits smaller collet and works perfectly in alluminum. With this one you do not need rigid tapping.
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I am only going to cut threads on wood (if I can figure out how to create the tool path and enter that bit in the library) because it doesn’t really cut normal thread pitch. It is a 90 degree angle cutter.
I currently using a dewalt 26200 which is the EU version of the 611. Way too fast for a decent chip load, have to go really shallow and fast.
you can find them with whatever angle you need. The guy from the video is in USA and it cuts imperial. You only have to enter a “FORM TOOL” were you draw the shape of the tool in fusion and it makes the revolve of it.
Look for form tool in fusion and you find tons of info. I use it to enter custom saw ecc…
Then fusion will take care of the rest for the tool path.
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Thanks man, those terms are sometimes what I lack, and it is almost sad what I try as keywords to find info sometimes.
Anyways, if you are interested, here is what I would like to make. But the guy on this video published the gcode but I don’t use other people gcode because it may be tuned for his machine and could be too much for mine. I also don’t l know the specs of the material and so on.
There is something about threads on wood that I find interesting. If I ever install a rotary axis on my machine, the first thing I will cut is a 3” diameter wood vise screw.
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Really cool stuff! Then defnitelly the video I posted will do the trick.
I also installed a 4th axis end of last year. it’s am harmonic drive for almost zero backlash, then IKEA box for the electronics I put together and getto shielded cable
Totally different to cut on 4th axis.
Btw the spindle in used on the x-carve in the video is porbably the best you can get quality/price. Different wattages available from 800 to 2.2Kw… I cut wood at 17K and it chips like crazy. It’s important that you use HSM (High speed machining) strategy in Fusion like Adaptive toolpaths where you can give a constant chip load, then you can go fast. When you slot (100% width of cut WOC) then yes you can not go full deep but need to go shallow based on machine and cutter diameter.
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All very interesting advices and info, I have videos to watch now thanks dude
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