Vinyl or something else?
Epoxy and printed fabric
On a PET base?
Only one way to find out
Went for night rides yesterday and today. The Unity is a nice and smooth controller, but a little underpowered in comparison to the Max6’s.
Has all the fine control I need to not streetface though so there is that. Also, I hopped off a couple of times unplugging the Unity, no problems.
Unity on VESC FW 5.0 beta with HFI is up and running.
HFI works perfectly, but outright performance so far is quite underwhelming, if anyone can give me some VESC setup tips please.
Hub board will outrun me level of underwhelming. It really sucks. @Deodand
What kv motors and what gearing?
is there any chance that your motor detection values much different than when measured using the older firmware?
Figured it out, friggen Hoyt Puck was in mode 1, applying expo to the PPM output.
FWIW my setup is a Unity on an MTB with Trampa trucks and 165mm pneumatics, being driven through dual e-toxx 1:4 Mini GDs by Turnigy SK3 6374 192kV motors at 8S with two Turnigy 4S 6Ah 65c Graphene LiPos wired in series.
Glad to see you figured it out!
May I ask what makes your settings so extremely different from mine? See 2 pictures:
Yours:
Mine:
Graphene LiPos, they can actually supply more than three times that current.
Oh thank you … I’m learning every hour here
Unfortunately for me, the Unity’s system limit is 120A. I’m going to bump up my Motor Current Max Brake though, -60A doesn’t even come close to locking up my wheels.
This is an example of a question I’ve had for a while. Your detection shows your motors can only take 54A. Why do you have the esc motor amps set to 80? Aren’t you just wasting energy?
Hard-headedness? Turnigy says the can handle 80A, and they hardly get lukewarm during operation.
Also, I’m not running full duty-cycle (80A) all the time, so only using what’s needed.
Any reason why you switched from the headway’s that you were using on V1?
V1 started with these same LiPos, then I built the Headway packs which couldn’t supply the current I needed, and now back to the LiPos until I have saved enough money to build a replacement Li-Ion battery pack.
If I wanted to try LiFePO4 again, I’d need to go with the Headway 38120HP cells. All things considered though, for long range capability and my safety requirements, going Li-Ion with cell level fusing is the only way.
Ive been teetering back and forth between going LiIon, LiPo, or A123 LiFePo4 but haven’t found anything that suggests that anything other than LiPo or 26650’s are the current ‘expected MTB’ cells.