You can also use the tips of scissors if you have the right kind. You only need to get it out of the slot and on the shaft, and then you can work it off with a pair of chopsticks so you don’t scrape the shaft.
Thanks circlip freaks, I’ll get some circlip pliers today, not willing to mar or ruin anything. Love the thoughtfulness though.
@BillGordon I tried the scissor method for about 10 seconds, but it was going to ruin my daughter’s scissor, so abandoned that idea.
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i have the nicest circlip tool money can buy, still ruin every circlip I remove. maybe the solution is a pack of replacement circlips
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Which one?
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Backpack integration is becoming better over time. Eventually envision this becoming a kit, but the 3D printer needs to come so I can do proper enclosure design and integration. It’s all a bit “best effort“ at the moment.
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If it’s not a Knipex he is lying!
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So after buying $60 of supplies (the circlip pliers were $40), I got stuck into the motor and sorted it within an hour.
From my point of view that’s a $100 saving, plus some more tools and knowledge / experience gained.
Thanks @Scepterr and @sesat for the tip about ruining circlips when removing them, due to that I also bought 10x spares.
I’ll reinforce the other motor tonight, then hopefully don’t have to do maintenance again on them again for years.
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the $27 supposedly-made-in-the-usa craftsman retaining ring pliers with replaceable bits
lmk if i messed up and bought the wrong pliers. there was a $12 tool hanging next to it at Ace, and the $15 difference would have bought me a whole lot of replacement circlips
clearly i lied
That’a a pretty bad one not gonna lie. Lateral stiffness is really important on circlip pliers. I have a collection of them from work and I only have 1 favorite
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So my other motor started making the same noise, now that I know what to listen for. Stripped it tonight and Loctited those bolts, assembled again and now I know that the backlash is correct and the same on both sides.
Feels like I accomplished something. All that’s left to do on the board is wheel balance, graphics and maybe wider hubs at some point. Most of the work that’s left is in the battery, ESC, and related enclosures for clean backpack integration.
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Do tell
Thinking of a certain bald headed black man handing out blue & red pills on the bottom, and not sure what on top yet, but maybe the same only in laser cut grip tape.
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I can skin it for you…
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Vinyl or something else?
Epoxy and printed fabric
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On a PET base?
Only one way to find out 
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Went for night rides yesterday and today. The Unity is a nice and smooth controller, but a little underpowered in comparison to the Max6’s.
Has all the fine control I need to not streetface though so there is that. Also, I hopped off a couple of times unplugging the Unity, no problems.
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Unity on VESC FW 5.0 beta with HFI is up and running.
HFI works perfectly, but outright performance so far is quite underwhelming, if anyone can give me some VESC setup tips please.
Hub board will outrun me level of underwhelming. It really sucks. @Deodand
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